Greece - Korina Miller [508]
Post office (Kastrou)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Mithymna (Molyvos) is ideal for wandering; the upper town’s small streets are lined with bright-shuttered, traditional stone houses wreathed in flowers. A 14th-century Byzantine-Genoese castle ( 22530 71803; admission €2; 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun) stands guard above; the steep climb is repaid by sweeping views of the town, sea and even Turkey shimmering on the horizon. Back in the 15th century, before Lesvos fell to the Turks, feisty Onetta d’Oria, wife of the Genoese governor, repulsed a Turkish onslaught after donning her husband’s armour and leading the fight from here. In summer it hosts a drama festival (ask at the tourist office).
Beach-lovers can take an excursion boat at 10.30am daily for Petra, Skala Sykaminias and Eftalou (from €20). Sunset cruises and boat ‘safaris’ are also available. Enquire with the portside Faonas Travel ( 22530 71630; tekes@otenet.gr).
SLEEPING
Budget
Over 50 registered, good-quality domatia are available. Look for signs, or ask the municipal tourist office. Even more expensive waterfront options sometimes give discounted rates.
Municipal Camping Mithymna ( 22530 71169; camp sites per adult/tent €7/3; Jun-Sep) This publicly run camping ground occupies an excellent shady site 1.5km from town and is signposted from near the municipal tourist office. If arriving before or after high season, call ahead.
Nassos Guest House ( 22530 71432, 6942046279; www.nassosguesthouse.com; Arionos; s/d €20/35; ) Head up to the old town’s only blue house to reach one of Lesvos’ most beautiful – and best-priced – sleeping spots. This refurbished Turkish mansion with a small enclosed garden features brightly painted, lovingly decorated traditional rooms with balconies overlooking the harbour. One room has a private bathroom. Friendly Dutch manager Tom provides local information, plus a book on hiking routes (€8). Check directly with him regarding availability to avoid missing out.
Captain’s View ( 22530 71241; meltheo@otenet.gr; 2-bedroom house €90-150; ) This restored old house has a well-equipped kitchen, spacious balcony and lounge. There are two bedrooms and a loft, sleeping up to six people. There are no minimum-stay requirements, but book ahead in summer.
Midrange
Molyvos Hotel ( 22530 71496; www.molyvos-hotels.com; waterfront; d incl breakfast €65; ) Although it works with package-tour operators, this handsome waterfront hotel is also a good choice for independent travellers, with well-kept, modern rooms overlooking the sea, friendly service and a good breakfast spread. You can usually park in the narrow lane out front.
Amfitriti Hotel ( 22530 71741; s/d/tr incl breakfast €65/90/100; ) Just 50m from the beach, this snazzy traditional stone hotel has modern, tiled rooms and a garden pool. It fills up fast and deals with package tourists, but independent travellers are welcome.
EATING & DRINKING
Alonia ( 22530 72431; mains €4.50-6) Locals swear by this unpretentious place just outside of town, on the road to Eftalou Beach. Although the decor is nothing special, Alonia is the best Mithymna choice for fresh fish at good prices.
Betty’s ( 22530 71421; 17 Noemvriou; mains €6-9) This restored Turkish pasha’s residence, visible under a red overhanging balcony on the upper streets, offers tasty tyropitakia (small cheese pies), savoury lamb souvlaki and baked eggplant with cheese. Best of all are the unusual seafood specialities, like Betty’s spaghetti shrimp.
O Gatos ( 22530 71661; www.gatos-restaurant.gr; mains €6.50-9) Near the arch by the castle entrance, this restaurant is a bit touristy but enjoys spellbinding views over the water – good for dinner before dusk.
Sunset ( 22530 71093; waterfront; 8am-1am) On the waterfront, close to the Molyvos Hotel, this friendly all-day cafe has a great selection of coffees and attentive service.
Molly’s Bar ( 22530 71209; 6pm-late) With