Greece - Korina Miller [512]
Melinda to Vatera Μελτα προς Βατερ
DRIVING TOUR
From Melinda, the road less taken to the beach resort of Vatera passes through tranquil mountain villages and richly forested hills, and winds between steep gorges offering breathtaking views down to the sea.
Driving north, tiny Paleohori is the first village, with very narrow streets and gentle elderly villagers who will peer over their thick glasses curiously at you from kafeneia in the hamlet’s miniature plateia. The old church in the upper town is much grander and more ornate than Paleohori would seem to need. It’s usually open and the priest can provide information (in Greek) about its history.
Continuing north from Paleohori, there are sweeping views of the sea and glimpses of even tinier villages nestled in the forested mountains opposite. Take the road west to Akrassio, and then north to Ambeliko; even though there’s a more direct western route, it’s safer to go to Ambeliko first and then, just before reaching it, turn left on the signposted, good-quality dirt road pointing downwards to Kato Stavros. This road lasts 9km before reverting to asphalt, and passes through serene olive and pine forests. The total driving time from Melinda to Vatera is little over an hour.
HIKING TRAILS
Hikers here can enjoy southern Lesvos’ ‘olive trails’, which comprise paths and old local roads from Plomari and Melinda. The Melinda–Paleohori trail (1.2km, 30 minutes) follows the Selandas River for 200m before ascending to Paleohori, passing a spring with potable water along the way. The trail ends at one of the village’s two olive presses. You can continue southwest to Panagia Kryfti, a cave church near a hot spring and the nearby Drota Beach, or take the Paleohori–Rahidi trail (1km, 30 minutes), paved with white stone and passing springs and vineyards. Rahidi, which got electricity only in 2001, has several charming old houses and a kafeneio.
Another trail heading northeast from Melinda leads to shady Kournela (1.8km, 40 minutes) and from there to Milos (800m, 20 minutes), where there’s an old flour mill. Alternately, hike to Milos directly from Melinda (2km, one hour) on a trail that hugs the river and passes ruined olive mills, one spring and two bridges, as well as orange and mandarin trees. From Milos, follow the river northeast to Amaxo (1.75km, one hour) and be treated to refreshing mountain-spring water in plane, poplar and pine forests.
Other, more complicated hiking trails can get you directly from Melinda to Vatera; consult the EOT ( 22510 42511; Aristarhou 6; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) in Mytilini Town or a travel agency for precise details.
Vatera & Polyhnitos Βατερ & Πολυχτος
Despite its 9km-long sandy beach, Vatera (vah-ter-ah), remains a low-key destination, with only a few small hotels and domatia operating, and even fewer bars. Serene Vatera thus remains a perfect destination for families, couples, or anyone looking to get away from it all.
On its western edge, at Cape Agios Fokas, the sparse ruins of an ancient Temple of Dionysos occupy a headland overlooking the sea. In the cove between the beach and the cape, evidence has been found indicating an ancient military encampment; indeed, some historians believe this is the place Homer was referring to in the ‘Iliad’ as the resting point for Greek armies besieging Troy. Legend also says that nearby Vryssa village was named after a Trojan woman, Vrysseida, who died after being contested by two of the victorious Greek fighters. To this day old women and even the occasional baby girl with the name Vrysseida can be found here; the name is not given anywhere else.
Vatera’s most remote history has attracted international attention. Fossils have been found here dating back 5.5 million years, including remains of a tortoise as big as a Volkswagen Bug and fossils of a gigantic horse and gazelle. A small Museum of Natural History ( 22520 61890; admission €1; 9.30am-7.30pm), located in Vryssa’a old schoolhouse, displays these and other significant remains. Ongoing excavations mean