Greece - Korina Miller [513]
Agricultural Polyhnitos, 10km north of Vatera on the road back to Mytilini town, is known for its two nearby hot springs, one just to the southeast and the other 5km north, outside Lisvorio village. The former, known as the Polyhnitos Spa ( 22520 41449; admission €3; 7am-noon & 3-8pm) is in a pretty, renovated Byzantine building, and has some of Europe’s hottest baths temperatures, at 31°C (87.6°F). Rheumatism, arthritis, skin diseases and gynaecological problems are treated here.
The Lisvorio Spa ( 22530 71245; admission €3; 8am-1pm & 3-8pm) consists of two small baths situated around a wooded stream. They’re unmarked, so ask around for directions; though the buildings are run-down, bathing is unaffected. The temperature and water properties are similar to those at Polyhnitos.
Some 5km northwest of Polyhnitos, the fishing port of Skala Polyhnitou lies on the Gulf of Kallonis. It’s a relaxing, though unremarkable place, where caïques bob at the docks and fishermen untangle their nets, and is great for low-key fresh seafood dinners with the locals.
Sleeping & Eating
Agiasos Hotel ( 22520 22242; Agiasos; s/d/tr €20/25/30) Next to the Church of Panagia in Agiasos, this friendly place has simple, clean rooms near the centre of the action.
Stratis Kazatzis Rooms ( 22520 22539; Agiasos; s/d/tr €20/25/30) Right at the entrance of Agiasos, these handsome rooms are also good value for money. Like the Agiasos Hotel, it’s a small place so book ahead.
Hotel Vatera Beach ( 22520 61212; www.vaterabeach.com; Vatera; s/d €65/90; ) This peaceful beachfront hotel regards its guests, many of whom return annually, as dear old friends. The congenial George and Barbara Ballis and family provide for the common needs of travellers with free multilingual newspapers and internet-equipped computers. Service is kind and courteous, while the hotel’s excellent restaurant gets most of its ingredients from the owners’ organic farm.
Psarotaverna O Stratos ( 22520 42910; Skala Polyhnitou; fish €6-9; 10am-1am) The best of several fish tavernas on Skala Polyhnitou’s waterfront, O Stratos offers excellent and inexpensive fresh seafood, plus salads like vlita (wild greens) and tasty mezedhes. The small fishing boats moored right before your table add to the ambience. Service is gracious and attentive.
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LIMNOS ΛΗΜΝΟΣ
pop 15,225 / area 482 sq km
Isolated Limnos, all alone in the northeastern Aegean save for neighbouring Agios Efstratios, nevertheless has much to offer to those looking for Greek island life relatively unaffected by modern tourism. Its capital, Myrina, has retained its classic Greek fishing harbour feel, while a grand Genoese castle flanked by beaches provides a dramatic backdrop. In high season, the city’s chic cafes and shops are frequented by (mostly Greek) tourists but otherwise the island is quiet, especially in its tranquil inland villages.
Although it’s not enormous, Limnos does offer variety. The eastern lakes are visited by spectacular flocks of flamingos and the austere central plain is filled with wildflowers in spring and autumn. Superb sandy beaches lie near the capital, as well as in more distant and intimate corners of the island. For even more isolation, you can visit Limnos’ tiny island dependency of Agios Efstratios (Click here) to the south, which also boasts serene beaches and fresh fish.
Limnos is notorious for its strong summer winds, which make the island great for windsurfing; in late summer, it also suffers the curse of the northernmost Aegean islands: jellyfish. However, to Greeks it’s perhaps best known as being the central command post of the Hellenic Air Force – a strategic decision, as Limnos is in an ideal position for monitoring the Straits of the Dardanelles leading into İstanbul. For this very reason the island was used as the operational base for the failed Gallipoli campaign in WW1; a moving military cemetery for fallen Commonwealth soldiers remains near Moudros, where the Allied ships were based.
Limnos, and especially