Greece - Korina Miller [524]
Taverna Tarsanas ( 25930 23933; mezedhes €4, mains €10-15) Located 1km west of Thasos, Tarsanas offers great fish and unique seafood mezedhes.
To Karanti ( 25930 24014; Miaouli) An outdoor ouzerie on the Old Harbour frequented by locals and tourists alike, To Karanti has a picturesque setting overlooking fishing boats, complemented by its traditional music and tasty mezedhes.
Karnagio ( 25930 23170) Stroll past the Old Harbour to the end for Karnagio, a nice open spot for a quiet sunset drink. The outdoor seating opens onto both sides of a rocky promontory lapped by waves. You can also clamber up the rocks to the small, candle-lit chapel above.
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WEST COAST
Thasos’ west coast has been assailed by package tourism for years, though there are still a few idyllic spots and quiet sandy beaches. Better still, the inland mountain villages preserve a traditional pace of life and some fine architecture, without much appreciable damage from the masses. There are ATMs in Skala Prinou, Limenaria and Potos, all large villages with numerous services.
Following the coast west from Thasos (Limenas), two average sandy beaches emerge, Glyfoneri and then Pahys Beach.
Continuing west, the port of Skala Prinou has ferries to Kavala, though little else. However, 1km south, the lovely Vasiliou Beach stands backed by trees, and the inland, hillside villages of Mikros Prinos and Megalos Prinos (collectively known as Kasaviti) offer a refreshingly lush break from the touristed coast, with undeniable character and a few places to stay and eat. Further southwest, two small beaches appear at Skala Sotira and Skala Kallirahis. Some 2km inland from the latter, traditional Kallirahi features steep narrow streets and stone houses.
However, the first real point of interest lies further south; the whimsical fishing port of Skala Marion. The village has been relatively unaffected by tourism – somewhat surprising, considering its long beaches on both sides (another smaller beach lies in the centre, between two jetties). Still primarily a fishing settlement, Skala Marion could be commissioned for filming some Italian romantic comedy. Its few canopied tavernas overlooking the sea are faithfully populated by village elders shuffling backgammon chips, while little children scamper about. A good choice for families and couples, Skala Marion features a few domatia, a bakery and even an internet cafe on the northern jetty. On the village’s feast day (24 June), church services are followed by folk dancing and sweets for all.
Inland from Skala Marion, forested Maries makes for an interesting day trip. A 4km-long solid dirt road beginning from the centre of inland Maries hugs a deep, forested ravine, arriving at a manmade but still photogenic forest lake. Drive or enjoy the cooler upland air by hiking there – the road is straight, the going not too strenuous.
The coast road south passes more beaches and Limenaria, Thasos’ second-largest town. Although it looks rather ungainly from the road, Limenaria has a nice, though small, sandy beach. Limenaria was created over a century ago for the German Speidel Metal Company; this erstwhile investor’s ruined buildings, including a circular tower, still loom over the waterfront.
A few kilometres further south, the fishing-villages-turned-resorts of Potos and Pefkari have long sandy beaches, the former being especially crammed with cafes and tavernas. Although Potos has a good position for southwestern Thasos activities, including boat excursions, the kitsch and frenetic package-tour presence has scarred it irrevocably.
Although technically nowhere near the west coast, Thasos’ medieval and Ottoman capital, Theologos, is only accessible from the main road at Potos. The turnoff is signposted, and the road leads inland for 10km before reaching Theologos, set against a rocky white peak and surrounded by forests. This tranquil hamlet of 400 souls is notable for its whitewashed, closely