Greece - Korina Miller [525]
From the Theologos-Potos corner of the main road, head southeast round the coast for views of stunning bays, some with pristine sandy beaches. The last southwestern settlement, Astris, has a good beach with tavernas and domatia.
Activities
Despite its touristy feel, Thasos’ west coast offers worthwhile outdoors activities like scuba diving, mountain biking, birdwatching and more. The rocky, uninhabited Panagia Islet, southwest of Potos, is home to Greece’s largest sea cormorant colony; birdwatching boat trips are arranged by local environmentalist Yiannis Markianos at Aldebaran Pension (below).
Also from Potos, the annual Thasos International Mountain Biking Race occurs on the last Sunday in April. This popular amateur event draws over 200 contestants, who race across a circular route from Potos east across the island’s wooded interior. The course scales Mt Ypsario (1204m) and returns through scenic Kastro village. Incredibly, the entry fee (only €20) also includes three nights’ hotel accommodation. Yiannis Raizis ( 25930 52459, 6946955704; www.mtb-thassos.com), who hires out high-quality mountain bikes year-round from his domatio in Potos, organises this event and also runs guided biking and hiking tours.
Further north, inland Rahoni hosts the Pine Tree Paddock ( 6945118961; 10am-2pm & 5pm-sunset), which has mountain ponies and horses (per hour €20), and does guided trail rides (per hour €25). Advance reservations are required.
Scuba-diving lessons for beginners and excursions for the experienced are offered in Potos by Vasilis Vasiliadis of Diving Club Vasiliadis ( 6944542974; www.scuba-vas.gr), including dives at Alyki’s submerged ancient marble quarry.
Sleeping
Camping Pefkari ( 25930 51190; camp sites per adult/tent €5/4; Jun-Sep) This appealing camping ground on a wooded spot above Pefkari Beach is popular with families and has clean bathrooms; a minimum three-night stay is required.
Camping Daedalos ( /fax 25930 58251; camp sites per adult/tent €6/4) This beach-front camping ground north of Skala Sotira includes a minimarket and restaurant. Sailing, windsurfing and water-skiing lessons are offered too.
Aldebaran Pension ( 25930 52494, 6973209576; www.gothassos.com; Potos; d from €30; ) One street back from Potos beach, and set in a relaxing, leafy courtyard, this friendly, family-run pension has rooms with all mod cons and spacious balconies. Owner Yiannis Markianos, who also runs the informative Gothassos.com website, also hires out boats and does birdwatching boat trips to Panagia Islet.
Domatia Filaktaki ( 25930 52634, 6977413789; Skala Marion; r from €35; ) These simple but air-conditioned rooms are situated above the home of the kind and helpful Maria Filaktaki and family in Skala Marion. It’s the first place you’ll reach when descending to the waterfront from the bus stop, above the family’s restaurant, Armeno.
MTB Yiannis Raizis Domatia ( 25930 52459, 6946955704; www.mtb-thassos.com; Potos; d/tr/q €45/60/70; ) A good option for large groups, these spacious self-catering studios run by mountain-biking enthusiast Yiannis Raizis fit up to eight people. It’s 20m past the church on the Potos main road, and a five-minute walk from the beach. There are sea views from the roof garden, an adjacent pool and shaded lawn bar.
Eating
O Georgios ( 25930 52774; Potos; mains €4.50-7) This traditional Greek grill house set in a pebbled rose garden is a local favourite away from the tourist strip on Potos’ main road, offering friendly service and big portions.
Taverna Giatrou ( 25930 31000; Theologos; mains €5-8) Set 800m on the right side when entering Theologos, this big taverna has great balcony views of village roofs and verdure below. Run by Kostas Giatrou (‘the Doctor’) and family, the place offers specialities including local roast lamb.