Greece - Korina Miller [526]
Armeno ( 25930 51277; Skala Marion; mains €5-9) This relaxing waterfront taverna in offbeat Skala Marion has tasty fish, plus the full taverna menu. The vegetables and olive oil are organic and from the gardens of the friendly Filaktaki family, who also rent rooms and can help with local information and car hire.
Piatsa Michalis ( 25930 51574; Potos; mains €6-10) Potos’ 50-year-old beachfront taverna started working well before mass tourism came to town, and sticks to the recipe with specialities like stewed rabbit and octopus in red-wine sauce, plus a full menu of taverna fare.
Restaurant Alphas ( 25930 53510; Skala Marion; mains €6-11) There’s fine waterside ambience, and some good mezedhes, at this fish taverna on Skala Marion’s northern pier.
Psarotaverna To Limani ( 25930 52790; Limenaria; mains €8-13) Limenaria’s best seafood is served at this waterfront restaurant opposite the National Bank of Greece, though prices can be steep.
Kafeneio Tsiknas ( 25930 31202; Theologos) At the beginning of Theologos, right before the church, this charming cafe has balcony seating, coffees and snacks.
Return to beginning of chapter
EAST COAST
Thasos’ sandy east-coast beaches are packed in summer, though the tourist presence is more concentrated than on the west side – partly because the landscape features thick forests that run down from mountains to the sea. Although there are fewer organised activities here, there’s a more relaxed feel, and the warm, shallow waters are excellent for families with small children.
The east coast also has photogenic (though touristy) inland villages like Panagia and Potamia, just south of Thasos (Limenas). Their characteristic architecture includes Panagia’s stone-and-slate rooftops and the sumptuously decorated, blue-and-white domed Church of the Kimisis tou Theotokou (Church of the Dormition of the Virgin), which has a valuable icon collection. To reach this peaceful quarter, follow the sound of rushing spring water upwards along a stone path heading inland. Less-picturesque Potamia boasts the Polygnotos Vagis Museum ( 25930 61400; admission €3; 8.30am-noon & 6-8pm Tue-Sat, to noon Sun & holidays), devoted to Greek-American artist Polygnotos Vagis (born here in 1894). It’s beside the main church. The Municipal Museum of Kavala also exhibits some of Vagis’ work.
Potamia also makes a good jumping-off point for climbing Thasos’ highest peak, Mt Ypsario (1204m), and for general hiking. A tractor trail west from Potamia continues to the valley’s end, after which arrows and cairns point the way along a steep path upwards. The Ypsario hike is classified as being of ‘moderate difficulty’ and takes about three hours. You can sleep at the Ypsario Mountain Shelter (per bed €5), but first phone Leftheris of the Thasos Mountaineering Club in Thasos (Limenas) on 6972198032 to book and get the key. The shelter has fireplaces and spring water, but no electricity.
Both Panagia and Potamia are 4km west of the east coast’s most popular beaches: sandy Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden Beach), tucked inside a long, curving bay, and Skala Potamia, on its southern end. The latter has very warm, gentle and shallow waters, making it ideal for small children. A bus between the two (€1.30) runs every couple of hours. Both have accommodation, restaurants and some nightlife. There’s one Commercial Bank ATM in Skala Potamia, rather oddly set alone on the main road, 150m west of the village turn-off.
Further south of Skala Potamia is the deservedly popular Paradise Beach, located down a narrow, winding dirt road 2km after tiny Kinyra village. Continuing around the main road’s southwestern bend, peaceful Alyki is Thasos’ best place to unwind by the beach – and get some culture, too. This escapist destination features two fine sandy coves, with small snack shops and a taverna on the western one. The beaches are separated by a little olive grove dotted with ancient ruins comprising the archaeological site of Alyki. This inscrutable site, deemed Thasos’ second-most significant after Limenas, lies alluringly above the southeastern