Greece - Korina Miller [527]
The main attraction, a former ancient temple where the gods were once invoked to protect sailors, is situated right above the sea and is studded by column bases. A now submerged nearby marble quarry operated from the 6th century BC to the 6th century AD. Clamber along the rocky path from the temple site southward around the peninsula, and you’ll also see an early Christian cave where hermits once lived.
Continuing west from Alyki, you’ll pass Thymonia Beach before rising upwards to the cliff-top Moni Arhangelou (admission free; 9am-5pm), an Athonite dependency and working nunnery, notable for its 400-year-old church and stunning views over the sea. Those improperly attired will get shawled up for entry. As at many Orthodox monasteries, pilgrims can stay overnight for free if they attend services.
Heading west from here, the road descends sharply; watch out for the small dirt road to the left, at the road’s northernmost curve. It leads to a tranquil swimming spot, Livadi Beach. One of Thasos’ most beautiful beaches, its aquamarine waters are ringed by cliffs and forests, with just a few umbrellas set in the sand.
Sleeping & Eating
Domatia and small hotels run down the coast, though most are nondescript and dated. There’s less accommodation at Kinyra and Alyki than at Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden Beach) and Skala Potamia, and there’s no accommodation on Paradise Beach. Regardless of place, you can just show up and grab a room; outside of July and August, prices are often 20% cheaper.
Golden Beach Camping ( 25930 61472; Hrysi Ammoudia; camp sites per adult/tent €5/4; ) A party feel pervades Golden Beach Camping, with its minimarket, bar, beach volleyball, and many young people from Greece, Serbia, Bulgaria and beyond. It’s a fun place on the beach’s best spot.
Domatia Vasso ( 25930 31534, 6946524706; Alyki; r €50; ) Just east of Alyki’s bus stop on the main road, look for the big burst of flowers and sign pointing up the drive to this relaxing set of eight self-catering domatia run by friendly Vasso Gemetzi and daughter Aleka. There’s a relaxing outdoor patio with tables and cooking space. Kids stay free. A minimum two-night stay is required.
Semeli Studios ( 25930 61612; www.semeli-studios.gr; Skala Potamia; d/tr €50/60; ) The Kamelia’s friendly owner Eleni Stoubou also runs these larger, self-catering options just behind. From the bus stop, head towards Hryssi Ammoudia on the main road for 100m; both Hotel Kamelia and Semeli Studios are signposted on the right.
Hotel Kamelia ( 25930 61463; www.hotel-kamelia.gr; Skala Potamia; s/d incl breakfast €40/60; ) This beach-front hotel has an understated, arty appeal, with flowery canvases, minimalist wall sculptures and cool jazz playing in the garden bar. The spacious, fresh-smelling rooms have large balconies and all mod cons.
Thassos Inn ( 25930 61612; www.thassosinn.gr; Panagia; s/d €50/70) Panagia’s best accommodation is ideally set near the church, with sweeping views of the village’s clustered slate rooftops. It has all mod cons and good-sized rooms, though the simple floors are uninspiring. The inn is run by the welcoming Tasos Manolopoulos, who proudly shows off his vegetable patch and pool of gigantic goldfish.
Taverna Elena ( 25930 61709; Panagia; mains €6-9) Just next to the traditional products shop off Panagia’s central square, this classic taverna has mezedhes like bougloundi (baked feta with tomatoes and chilli), and excellent roast lamb and goat.
Restaurant Koralli ( 25930 62244; Skala Potamia; mains €7-11) This big Skala Potamia taverna serves above-average mushrooms stuffed with shrimp, eggplant baked with mozzarella and parmesan, zucchinis stuffed with crab, carpaccio and 330g sirloin steaks.
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Evia & the Sporades Εβοια & Οι Σπορδες
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EVIA ΕΥΒΟΙΑ
CENTRAL EVIA
NORTHERN EVIA
SOUTHERN EVIA
SKIATHOS ΣΚΙΑΘΟΣ
SKIATHOS TOWN
AROUND SKIATHOS
SKOPELOS ΣΚΟΠΕΛΟΣ
SKOPELOS