Greece - Korina Miller [528]
GLOSSA & LOUTRAKI ΓΛΩΣΣΑ & ΛΟϒΤΡΑΚΙ
AROUND SKOPELOS
ALONNISOS ΑΛΟΝΝΗΣΟΣ
PATITIRI ΠΑΤΗΤΗΡΙ
OLD ALONNISOS ΠΑΛΙΑ ΑΛΟΝΝΙΣΟΣ
AROUND ALONNISOS
ISLETS AROUND ALONNISOS
SKYROS ΣΚΥΡΟΣ
SKYROS TOWN
MAGAZIA & MOLOS ΜΑΓΑΖΙΑ & ΜΩΛΟΣ
AROUND SKYROS
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Evia and the four islands known as the Sporades remain largely off the beaten path, but attract more Greeks than most and consequently retain a good deal of local colour. Evia is joined to the mainland by a short drawbridge at Halkida, which spans a narrow gulf.
Only two hours from Athens, both Halkida and nearby Eretria are destinations for car loads of weekend visitors. Across the island, though, the pace slows as the landscape stretches out, dotted by hilltop monasteries, small farms and vineyards. Goats stand in the middle of the road and stare at passing cars. Small beaches await on the north, west and southeast coasts, many of them with crystal-clear bays that elsewhere would be lined with matching umbrellas. The Sporades (in Greek, ‘scattered ones’) seem like an extension of the forested Pelion Peninsula. In fact, in prehistoric times they were joined. Skiathos, a haven for northern Europeans, claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, along with several prime scuba-diving spots. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a relaxed and postcard-worthy harbour and a good number of pristine bays, and forest meadows threaded with walking trails. Alonnisos, the most remote of the group, anchors the National Marine Park of Alonnisos – established to protect the Mediterranean monk seal – and is a model for ecological awareness throughout Greece. Skyros, the southernmost of the chain, retains a good deal of local character, and is well known for its unique cuisine, woodworking and ceramics, folk traditions that date from Byzantine times when these islands were home to rogues and pirates – something that the good-natured residents are proud to mention.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Spa Bathing Soaking in the therapeutic thermal waters at Loutra Edipsou, on Evia
Dinner on the Dock Picking out your favourite from the fresh catch at Kalamakia, on Alonnisos
Aegean Adventure Watching for dolphins while cruising around Greece’s only national marine park at Alonnisos
Island Walks Hiking through olive groves and across pristine meadows on Skopelos
Romantic Meditation Catching the sunset over wine from Atsitsa Bay, on Skyros
Midnight Music Listening to one of Greece’s best bouzouki players above the kastro overlooking Skopelos Town
Scuba Diving Exploring an underwater reef 30m down off Tsougriaki islet, Skiathos, on Skopelos
POPULATION: 228,750
AREA: 4167 SQ KM
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EVIA ΕΥΒΟΙΑ
Evia (eh-vih-ah), Greece’s second-largest island after Crete and a prime holiday destination for Greeks, remains less charted by foreign tourists. Its attractions include glorious mountain roads, challenging treks, major archaeological finds and mostly uncrowded beaches. A mountainous spine runs north–south, dividing the island’s precipitous eastern cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west coast. Ferries link the island to the mainland, along with a short sliding drawbridge over the narrow Evripos Channel to the capital of Halkida. The current in the narrow channel reverses direction about seven times daily, an event whose full explanation has eluded observers since Aristotle.
Getting There & Away
There are regular bus services between Halkida and Athens (€6.20, 1¼ hours, half-hourly), Ioannina (€35.50, one daily) and Thessaloniki (€36, 6 hours, twice daily). There is also a regular train service between Halkida and Athens (normal, €5, 1½/one hour, hourly/four daily), and between Halkida and Thessaloniki (normal/IC express €26/33, 5½/4½ hours, six/four daily). There are regular ferry services from Evia to Skyros, Alonnisos and Skopelos; for details Island Hopping.
Tickets may be purchased at the dock kiosk at Paralia Kymis (the port of Kymi on Evia).
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CENTRAL EVIA
After crossing the bridge to Halkida, the road