Greece - Korina Miller [529]
Young fir, pine, and olive trees are making a comeback along the coastal road south of Eretria, thanks to a joint governmental and private reforestation project, following the tragic forest fires of August 2007.
Halkida Χαλκδα
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Mentioned in the ‘Iliad’, Halkida (aka Halkis) was a powerful city-state in the 8th and 7th centuries BC, with several colonies dotted around the Mediterranean. The name derives from the bronze manufactured here in antiquity (halkos means ‘bronze’ in Greek). Today it’s a gateway to Evia, and a lively shipping and agricultural centre. As evening approaches, the waterfront promenade by the Old Bridge comes to life.
To glimpse Halkida’s interesting religious history, head up Kotsou towards the kastro (castle) to find a striking 15th-century mosque, and 19th-century synagogue, adjacent to Plateia Tzami (Tzami Sq). Then walk south about 150m to find the Byzantine church of Agia Paraskevi. An Archaeological Museum ( 22210 60944; Leoforos Venizelou 13; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) displays a fine torso of Apollo discovered at Eretria.
INFORMATION
Several ATMs cluster near the corner of Venizelou and Voudouri.
Hospital ( 22210 21902; cnr Gazepi & Hatzopoulou)
Kiosk ( 22210 76718; cnr Boudouri & Douna) International press.
Pharmacy ( 22210 25424; Isaiou 6)
Post office (cnr Karamourtzouni & Kriezotou; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri)
Surf-on-Net Cafe ( 22210 24867; Angeli Goviou 7A; internet per hr €1.50; 24hr)
Tourist police ( 22210 77777)
ACTIVITIES
Sport Apollon Scuba Diving Centre ( 22210 86369, 6945219619; www.sportapollon.gr; 9am-1.30pm & 5-9pm) in Halkida organises dives off the nearby Alykes coast, led by dive team Nikos and Stavroula. A one-day dive costs about €40.
SLEEPING & EATING
Best Western Lucy Hotel ( 22210 23831; www.lucy-hotel.gr; Voudouri 10; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €70/90/137/157; ) Rooms at the 2009-renovated Lucy are on the modern side, with swank blond furnishings, long desks and large bathrooms. The friendly multilingual staff can also clue you in to the adjacent boardwalk cafe scene.
Ouzerie O Loukas ( 22210 60371; Makariou 1; meze-dhes €3-6, mains €5-9) On the mainland side of the Old Bridge, this handsome ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks) has first-rate mains and appetisers, from grilled octopus and horta (wild greens) to tzatziki and mussels with rice.
Mostar Café-Bar ( 22210 81213; Old Bridge; drinks, snacks €3-7; ) You can’t get any closer to the channel or the drawbridge than at this swank ultramodern bar.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are regular bus services between Halkida and Athens, Ioannina and Thessaloniki. Regular trains also connect Halkida with Athens and Thessaloniki.
To reach other parts of Evia, there are connections from Halkida KTEL Bus Station ( 22210 20400, cnr Styron & Arethousis), 3km east of the Old Bridge, to Eretria (€2, 25 minutes, hourly) and Kymi Town (€7.60, two hours, hourly), one of which continues to Paralia Kymis to meet the Skyros ferry. There are also buses to Steni (€2.70, one hour, twice daily), Limni (€7.10, two hours, three daily), Loutra Edipsou (€10.80, 2½ hours, once daily) and Karystos (€10.50, three hours, three daily).
For more information Island Hopping.
Eretria Ερέτρια
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Heading southeast from Halkida, Eretria is the first place of interest, with a small harbour and a lively boardwalk filled with mainland families who pack its fish tavernas on holiday weekends. There are late Neolithic finds around Eretria, which became a major maritime power and home to an eminent school of philosophy by the 8th century BC. The modern town was founded in the 1820s, during the War of