Greece - Korina Miller [530]
INFORMATION
For emergencies, call the Halkida tourist police ( 22210 77777). For internet access, head to Christos Internet Cafe-Bar ( 22290 61604; per hr €2; 9am-1am) on the waterfront.
SIGHTS
From the top of the ancient acropolis there are splendid views over to the mainland. West of the acropolis are the remains of a palace, temple and theatre with a subterranean passage once used by actors to reach the stage. Close by, the excellent Archaeological Museum of Eretria ( 22290 62206; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) contains well-displayed finds from ancient Eretria. A 200m walk will bring you to the fascinating House of Mosaics, and ends 50m further on at the Sanctuary of Apollo.
SLEEPING & EATING
Milos Camping ( 22290 60420; www.camping-in-evia.gr/index_en.html; camp sites per adult/tent €6.50/4) This clean, shaded camping ground on the coast 1km northwest of Eretria has a small restaurant, bar and narrow pebble beach.
Eviana Beach Hotel ( 22290 62113; www.evianabeach.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €80/105/145; ) Tucked away 500m east of the waterfront, this 2009-renovated lodging occupies a prime beachfront spot, with spacious tile-floored rooms, plus an inviting tree-shaded beach bar.
Taverna Astra ( 22290 64111; Arheou Theatrou 48; mains €4-9) Just past the supermarket, this friendly waterfront taverna is known for well-priced fresh fish, along with appetisers like taramasalata (fish roe) and roasted sardines.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Ferries travel daily between Eretria and Skala Oropou. For details Island Hopping.
Tickets should be purchased from the dock kiosk at the port of Eretria.
Steni Στε
pop 1080
From Halkida, it’s 31km to the lovely mountain village of Steni, with its gurgling springs and shady plane trees.
Steni is the starting point for a serious climb up Mt Dirfys (1743m), Evia’s highest mountain. The Dirfys Refuge ( 22280 24298), at 1120m, can be reached along a 9km dirt road. From there, it’s a steep 7km to the summit. Experienced hikers should allow about six hours from Steni to the summit. For refuge reservations, contact Stamatiou ( Mon-Fri 6972026862, Sat-Sun 22280 25655; per person €12). For more hiking information, contact the EOS-affiliated Halkida Alpine Club ( 22210 25230; Angeli Gouviou 22, Halkida). For tips on day hikes around Mt Dirfys, contact Graham Beaumont ( 6936523804; www.eviavillas.co.uk) in Halkida. An excellent topo map (No 5.11), Mt Dirfys, is published by Anavasi.
A twisting road continues from Steni to Paralia Hiliadou on the north coast, where a grove of maple and chestnut trees borders a fine pebble-and-sand beach, along with a few domatia and tavernas. Campers can find shelter near the big rocks at either end of the beach.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hotel Dirfys ( 22280 51217; s/d incl breakfast €30/40) The best of Steni’s two hotels is big on knotty pine which dominates the decor, from the lobby walls to most of the furniture. The comfortable and carpeted rooms have perfect views of the forest and stream.
Taverna Kissos (Ivy Taverna; 22280 51226; mains €4-9) One of a cluster of good brookside eateries, this traditional taverna offers hearty meat grills (steaks sold by the kilo), traditional mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) and salads prepared from locally grown greens.
Kymi & Paralia Kymis Κμη & Παραλα Κμης
pop 3040
The workaday town of Kymi is built on a cliff 250m above the sea. Things perk up at dusk when the town square comes to life. The port, Paralia Kymis, 4km downhill, is the only natural harbour on the precipitous east coast, and the departure point for ferries to Skyros.
The excellent Folklore Museum ( 22220 22011; 10am-1pm Wed & Sun,10am-1pm & 4-6.30pm Sat), 30m downhill from the main square, has an impressive collection of local costumes and historical photos, including a display honouring Kymi-born Dr George Papanikolaou, inventor of the Pap smear test.
Kymi is home to Figs of Kymi ( 22220 31722; www.figkimi.gr; 9am-3pm Mon-Fri), an agricultural co-op dedicated to supporting local fig farmers and