Greece - Korina Miller [531]
SLEEPING & EATING
In Paralia Kymis, the reliable Hotel Beis ( 22220 22604; www.hotel-beis.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €40/60; ), a cavernous white block with large and spotless rooms, is opposite the ferry dock for Skyros. A string of tavernas and ouzeries lines the waterfront.
Just 3km south in tiny Platana, next to the seawall, try the excellent fish taverna Koutelos ( 22220 71272; mains €5-9), where Alexandra and Konstantinos will interpret the menu with dramatic pleasure. Up the hill in Kymi, little Taverna Mouria ( 22220 22629; mains €4-9), 150m north of the square, is great for shrimp grills, mayirefta dishes and family-sized Greek salads (€4.50).
Return to beginning of chapter
NORTHERN EVIA
From Halkida a road heads north to Psahna, the gateway to the highly scenic mountainous interior of northern Evia. A good road climbs and twists through pine forests to the woodsy village of Prokopi, home of the pilgrimage church of St John the Russian. At Strofylia, 14km beyond Prokopi, a road heads southwest to picturesque Limni, then north to quaint Loutra Edipsou, the ferry port at Agiokambos, and Pefki, a small seaside resort.
Loutra Edipsou Λουτρ Αιδηψο
pop 3600
The classic spa resort of Loutra Edipsou has therapeutic sulphur waters, which have been celebrated since antiquity. Famous skinny dippers have included Aristotle, Plutarch and Sylla. The town’s gradual expansion over the years has been tied to the improving technology required to carry the water further and further away from its thermal source. Today the town has Greece’s most up-to-date hydrotherapy and physiotherapy centres. The town beach (Paralia Loutron) heats up year-round thanks to the thermal waters which spill into the sea.
INFORMATION
You’ll find internet service at Lan Arena ( 22260 22597; per hr €2.50; 10am-1am), opposite the ferry port. For medical needs, contact English-speaking Dr Symeonides ( 22260 23220; Omirou 17).
ACTIVITIES
Most of the hotels offer various spa treatments, from simple hot baths (€6) to four-hand massages (€160).
The more relaxing (and affordable) of the resort’s two big spas is the EOT Hydrotherapy-Physiotherapy Centre ( 22260 23501; 25 March St 37; 7am-1pm & 5-7pm 1 Jun-31 Oct), speckled with palm trees and with a large outdoor pool that mixes mineral and sea water, and terrace overlooking the sea. Hydro-massage bath treatments start at a modest €8.
The ultraposh Thermae Sylla Hotel & Spa ( 22260 60100; www.thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos 2), with a somewhat late-Roman ambience befitting its name, offers an assortment of health and beauty treatments, from thermal mud baths to seaweed body wraps, from around €60.
Modern spa treatments (including Thai massage) are also available from the Knossos CitySpa Hotel ( 22260 22460; www.knossos-spa.com; Vyzantinon 19).
SLEEPING & EATING
Hotel Istiaia ( 22260 22309; 28th October 2; www.istiaiahotel.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €34/50/70; ) The Istiaia is a handsome vintage hotel with high-ceiling rooms and an old world feel, aside from the smallish bathrooms. A cafe-wine bar faces out to the seawall.
Hotel Kentrikon ( /fax 22260 22502; www.kentrikonhotel.com; 25th Martiou 14; s/d/tr €42/60/70; ) This friendly hotel-spa, managed by a Greek-Irish couple, is equal parts kitsch and charm. An inviting thermal pool awaits, along with a massage therapist, Vicky Kavartziki ( 6945146374).
Thermae Sylla Hotel & Spa ( 22260 60100; www.thermaesylla.gr; Posidonos 2; s/d/ste from €210/250/500; ) This posh in-your-mud-masked-face spa offers luxury accommodation along with countless beauty treatments. Day visitors can sample the outdoor pool for €27.
Dina’s Amfilirion Restaurant ( 22260 60420; 28th October 26; mains €5-10) Beautifully prepared offerings change daily here. A generous plate of grilled cod with oven potatoes, a juicy tomato-cucumber salad and a worthy house wine costs about €12. Look for the small wooden sign with green letters in Greek, 20m north