Greece - Korina Miller [537]
Lalaria Beach is a tranquil strand of pale-grey, egg-shaped pebbles on the northern coast. It is much featured in tourist brochures, but only reached by excursion boat from Skiathos Town (see Tours, Click here).
KASTRO ΚΑΣΤΡΟ
Kastro, perched dramatically on a rocky headland above the north coast, was the fortified pirate-proof capital of the island from 1540 to 1829; an old cannon remains at the northern end. Four of the crumbling town’s old churches have been restored, and the views are magnificent. Excursion boats come to the beach below Kastro, from where it’s an easy clamber up to the ruins.
MONI EVANGELISTRIAS ΜΟΝΗ ΕϒΑγΓΕΛΙΣΤΡΙΑΣ
The most famous of the island’s monasteries is the 18th-century Moni Evangelistrias (Monastery of the Annunciation; 24270 22012; 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-7pm), poised 450m above sea level and surrounded by pine and cypress trees. It was a refuge for freedom fighters during the War of Independence and the Greek flag was first raised here, in 1807. Today, two monks do the chores, which include wine-making. You can sample, and buy, the tasty results of their efforts in the museum (admission €1) shop. An adjacent shed of old olive and wine presses and vintage barrels recalls an earlier era, long before the satellite dish was installed above the courtyard.
MONI PANAGIAS KOUNISTRAS ΜΟΝΗ ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑΣ ΚΟΥΝΙΣΤΡΑΣ
From Troulos (bus stop 20), a road heads north to the 17th-century Moni Panagias Kounistras (Monastery of the Holy Virgin; morning-dusk), which is worth a visit for the fine frescoes adorning its katholikon. It’s 4km inland from Troulos.
DIVING
The small islets off the south shore of Skiathos make for great diving. Rates average €40-50 for half-day dives, equipment included.
Dive instructor team Theofanis and Eva of Octopus Diving Centre ( 24270 24549, 6944168958; www.odc-skiathos.com; new harbour) lead dives around Tsougria and Tsougriaki islets for beginners and experts alike. Call or enquire at their boat.
Skiathos Diving Centre ( 24270 24424; www.skiathosdivingcenter.gr; Papadiamanti), and Dolphin Diving ( 24270 21599, 6944999181; www.ddiving.gr; Nostos Beach) are also popular for first-time divers, with dives off Tsougriaki Islet exploring locations 30m deep.
HIKING
A 6km-long hiking route begins at Moni Evangelistrias, eventually reaching Cape Kastro, before circling back through Agios Apostolis. Kastro is a spring mecca for birdwatchers, who may spot long-necked Mediterranean shags and singing blue-rock thrushes on the nearby rocky islets.
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THE GREEN BEEKEEPER OF SKIATHOS Michael Clark
Bouncing along a dirt road in his old car, Skiathos beekeeper Yiannis talked non-stop about his life before bees and since. ‘I had once work with stock markets, and I can’t sleep the night. But Hippocrates say, “Give milk and honey”‘, referring to the 5th-century-BC father of medicine. ‘It’s clean now, inside me.’ Then, laughing, he corrected himself, ‘It’s a dirty job, but is something good to the land.’
At the bee field, Yiannis, who’s in his early 30s, has scattered about 100 blue boxes, each with 7000 to 10,000 bees. ‘I’m first one in Skiathos. Hard to find the young person to do this.’ With that, he takes out a small ‘smoke can’, stuffs a handful of green weeds into it, then lights it with a match. Smoke pours out as he waves it around a bee box. ‘Smoke to scare the bees. Communicate to queen ‘fire danger!’ Then queen, she makes more eggs!’
He talks about the honey (in Greek, meli) and about different blossoms and trees – elatos (fir) and pefko (pine) are favourites. ‘Bees, the inside, make love the flower’. I wave off some bees who are getting a little too friendly. We are both wearing protective head nets, but our arms and hands are exposed. Yiannis shows little concern: ‘The bees, they know me.’ As for me, I just mutter, ‘I’m with him’.
Opening another box, Yiannis’ face lights up: ‘Look, is the queen! You must have good queen. She live four years. One good queen, young, make lot of honey’. He reads my mind: ‘Fifteen euros to buy new queen.