Greece - Korina Miller [538]
But a new queen must be accepted by the bee colony. ‘Different smell, so bees must accept her.’ This entails putting the new and hungry queen in a tiny box with a door made of food. By the time she nibbles her way out 24 hours later, she is usually accepted. ‘But if not understand, the bees, they kill her.’
Without partners or assistants, Yiannis works alone, but confides, ‘The bees, they help!’ His modest goal is to double his production from 100 to 200 boxes. ‘We have best honey in all the world.’ His pride is contagious, but I’m impressed that he never loses sight of the larger picture: ‘The land and the sky have energy. The bee feel this. We need the honey, for the planet. To be careful, the green planet!’
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Sleeping & Eating
Koukounaries Camping ( /fax 24270 49250; camp sites per adult/tent €10/4; ) Shaded by fig and mulberry trees, this family-managed site near the eastern end of Koukounaries Beach features spotless bathroom and cooking facilities, a minimarket and taverna.
Achladies Apartments ( 24270 22486; http://achladies.apartments.googlepages.com; Achladies Bay; d/tr/f incl breakfast €45/60/75; ) Look for the hand-painted yellow sign to find this welcoming gem, 5km from Skiathos Town. Along with self-catering rooms (two-night minimum stay) and ceiling fans, it features an eco-friendly tortoise sanctuary and a succulent garden winding down to a taverna and sandy beach.
Atrium Hotel ( 24270 49345; www.atriumhotel.gr; Paraskevi Beach; s/d/ste incl breakfast from €100/130/200; ) Traditional architecture and modern touches make this hillside perch the best in its class. Rooms are low-key elegant, with basin sinks and large balconies. A lavish breakfast buffet starts the day, and amenities include sauna, children’s pool, billiards and ping-pong.
Panorama Pizza ( 6944192066; pizzas €7-10; noon-4pm, 7pm-late) Escape to this hilltop retreat, off the ring road, for pizza and panoramic views.
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SKOPELOS ΣΚΟΠΕΛΟΣ
pop 4700
Skopelos is a beautiful island of pine forests, vineyards, olive groves and orchards of plums and almonds, which find their way into many local dishes.
Like Skiathos, the high cliffs of the northwest coast are exposed, while the sheltered southeast coast harbours several sand-and-pebble beaches. There are two large settlements: the capital and main port of Skopelos Town on the east coast; and the unspoilt west coast village of Glossa, 3km north of Loutraki, the island’s second port.
In ancient times the island was an important Minoan outpost ruled by Stafylos (meaning ‘grape’), the son of Ariadne and Dionysos in Greek mythology, and who is said to have introduced wine-making here. The island endured more recent fame as a filming location for the 2008 movie Mama Mia!
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Skopelos has two ports, Skopelos Town and Glossa, both with links to mainland Volos and Agios Konstantinos, and to the other Sporades islands of Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonnisos and Skyros. For details Island Hopping.
Tickets are available from Hellenic Seaways ( 24240 22767; fax 24240 23608) opposite the new quay; and Lemonis Agency ( 24240 22363) in Pension Lemonis towards the end of the new quay. In Glossa, Hellenic Seaways ( 24240 33435, 6932913748) is opposite the port.
Getting Around
BOAT
A regular water taxi departs late morning for Glysteri Beach (€5 one way), and returns around 5pm.
BUS
There are seven or eight buses per day in summer from Skopelos Town to Glossa/Loutraki (€4.30, one hour) and Elios (€3, 45 minutes), three that go only as far as Panormos (€2.20, 25 minutes) and Milia (€2.60, 35 minutes), and another two that go only to Agnontas (€1.40, 15 minutes) and Stafylos (€1.40, 15 minutes).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Several car- and motorcycle-hire outlets line the harbour in Skopelos Town, mostly located at the eastern end of the waterfront, including the friendly and efficient Motor Tours ( 24240 22986; fax 24240 22602) next to Hotel Eleni, and Avis ( 24240 23170).
TAXI
Taxis wait by the bus stop. A taxi