Greece - Korina Miller [542]
Mando Rooms ( 24240 23917; www.skopelos.net/mando; s/d/tr/f €80/90/110/150; ) Having its own cove on the bay at Stafylos is a good start at this family-oriented and welcoming pension. Other extras include free coffee, a communal kitchen, satellite TV, and a platform over the rocks to enter the water.
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ALONNISOS ΑΛΟΝΝΗΣΟΣ
pop 2700
Alonnisos rises from the sea like a mountain of greenery with thick stands of pine and oak, along with mastic and arbutus bushes, and fruit trees. The west coast is mostly precipitous cliffs but the east coast is speckled with small bays and pebbly beaches and remains of a 5th-century-BC shipwreck. The water around Alonnisos has been declared a national marine park, and is the cleanest in the Aegean.
But lovely Alonnisos has had its share of bad luck. In 1952 a thriving cottage wine industry came to a halt, when vines imported from California were struck with the disease phylloxera. Robbed of their livelihood, many islanders moved away. Then, in 1965, an earthquake destroyed the hilltop capital of Alonnisos Town (now known as Old Alonnisos or Hora). The inhabitants were subsequently rehoused in hastily assembled dwellings at Patitiri.
Getting There & Away
Alonnisos’ main port is Patitiri, which has links to mainland Volos and Agios Konstantinos, and to the other Sporades isles of Skiathos, Skopelos and Skyros. For details Island Hopping.
Tickets can be purchased from Alkyon Travel ( 24240 65220), or Alonnisos Travel ( 24240 65188; book@alonnisostravel.gr), both in Patitiri.
Getting Around
BOAT
Alonnisos Travel ( 24240 65188) hires out four-person 15hp to 25hp motorboats. The cost ranges from €48 to €60 per day in summer.
BUS
In summer, one bus plies the route between Patitiri (from opposite the quay) and Old Alonnisos (€1.20, hourly, 9am to about 3pm). There is also a service to Steni Vala from Old Alonnisos (€1.30).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Several motorcycle-hire outlets can be found on Pelasgon, in Patitiri, including reliable I’m Bike ( 24240 65010). Be wary when riding down to the beaches, as some of the sand-and-shale tracks are steep and slippery. For cars, try Albedo Travel ( 24240 65804), or Nefeli Bakery & Rent-A-Car ( 24240 66497), both in Patitiri.
TAXI
The four taxis on the island (Georgos, Periklis, Theodoros and Spyros) tend to congregate opposite the quay. It’s about €5 to Old Alonnisos, €8 to Megalos Mourtias and €12 to Steni Vala.
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PATITIRI ΠΑΤΗΤΗΡΙ
Patitiri (‘wine press’ in Greek) sits between two sandstone cliffs at the southern end of the east coast. Despite its hasty origins following the devastating 1965 earthquake that levelled the old hilltop capital (Palia Alonnisos), Patitiri is gradually improving its homely looks. The town is small and relaxed, and makes a convenient base for exploring Alonnisos.
Orientation
Finding your way around Patitiri is easy. The quay is in the centre of the waterfront and two roads lead inland. With your back to the sea, turn left for Pelasgon, or right for Ikion Dolopon. In truth, there are no road signs and most people refer to them as the left-hand road and right-hand road (or main road).
Information
National Bank of Greece ATM (main road)
Play Café ( 24240 66119; internet per hr €3; 9am-2pm & 6-9pm) Opposite the bank.
Police ( 24240 65205) Top of main road.
Port police ( 24240 65595; quay)
Post office (main road; 7.30am-2pm)
Techno Plus ( 24240 29100; internet per hr €3; 9am-2pm & 5-9pm) Top of main road.
Sights
FOLKLORE MUSEUM OF THE NORTHERN SPORADES
Largely a labour of love by Kostas and Angela Mavrikis, the Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades ( 24240 66250, 6974027465; www.alonissosmuseum.com; admission adult/child €4/free; 10am-9pm) includes an extensive and well-signed display of pirates’ weapons and tools, a blacksmith’s and antique nautical maps. A small cafe with displays by local artists sits atop the museum with views of