Greece - Korina Miller [543]
NATIONAL MARINE PARK OF ALONNISOS
In a country not noted for ecological long-sightedness, the National Marine Park of Alonnisos is a welcome innovation. Started in 1992, its prime aim has been the protection of the endangered Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). boxed text.
The park is divided into two zones. The carefully restricted Zone A comprises a cluster of islets to the northeast, including Kyra Panagia. Zone B is home to Alonnisos itself and Peristera.
In summer, licensed boats from Alonnisos and Skopelos conduct excursions through the marine park. Though it’s unlikely you’ll find the shy monk seal, your chances of spotting dolphins (striped, bottlenose and common) are fairly good.
MOM Information Centre ( 24240 66350; www.mom.gr; Patitiri; 10am-8pm) Don’t miss this excellent info centre, all about the protected Mediterranean monk seal, with attractive displays, videos in English and helpful multi-lingual staff on hand.
Activities
WALKING
Walking opportunities abound on Alonnisos, and the best ones are waymarked. At the bus stop in Old Alonnisos a blue noticeboard details several walks. From Patitiri, a 2km donkey track winds up through shrubbery and orchards before bringing you to Old Alonnisos.
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THE MONK SEAL
Once populating hundreds of colonies in the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, as well as along the Atlantic coast of Africa, the Mediterranean monk seal has been reduced to about 400 individuals today. Half of these live in waters between Greece and Turkey.
One of the earth’s rarest mammals, this seal is on the list of the 20 most endangered species worldwide. Major threats include deliberate killings by fishermen – who see the seal as a pest that tears holes in their nets and robs their catch – incidental capture in fishing gear, decreasing food supply as fisheries decline, habitat destruction and pollution.
Recognising that this seal may become extinct if not protected, Greece established the National Marine Park of Alonnisos (above) in 1992, both to protect the seal and to promote recovery of fish stocks.
For more information, visit the website of MOM (Hellenic Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk Seal; www.mom.gr).
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Consider a guided walk ( 6974080039; www.alonnisoswalks.co.uk; walks €15-30) with island resident Chris Browne. A half-day walk above Patitiri winds through pine forest trails, past churches and olive groves overlooking the sea. His book, Alonnisos through the souls of your feet (€15), contains detailed forest and coastal trail descriptions, plus prime snorkelling sites. Also available at waterfront shops is the informative Alonnisos on Foot: A Walking & Swimming Guide (€14), by Bente Keller and Elias Tsoukanas.
CYCLING
The best mountain-bike riding is over on the southwest coast around the bay of Megali Ammos. There are several bicycle- and motorcycle-hire outlets on Ikion Dolopon.
Courses
Kali Thea ( 24240 65513; www.kalithea.org) offers yoga classes and massage on the outskirts of Old Alonnisos.
Tours
Three professional travel agencies on the waterfront provide maps and arrange popular marine park excursions. Enquire at Ikos Travel ( 24240 65320; www.ikostravel.com) for popular round-the-island guided excursions aboard the Gorgona (a classic Greek boat captained by island native, Pakis Athanasiou), which visit the Blue Cave on the northeast coast, and the islets of Kyra Panagia and Peristera in the marine park, with swimming breaks along the way. Albedo Travel ( 24240 65804; www.albedotravel.com) runs regular snorkelling and swimming excursions aboard the Odyssey to Skantzoura and nearby islands, and even arranges island weddings. Alonnisos Travel ( 24240 65188; www.alonnisostravel.gr) also runs marine park excursions, aboard the Planitis.
Sleeping
Prices here are for the higher July and August season; expect discounts of 25% at other times. A helpful quayside kiosk opens in July and August.
Camping Rocks (