Greece - Korina Miller [545]
Aerides Café-Bar ( 6936522583; Old Alonnisos; 9am-5pm & 7pm-2am) Maria makes the drinks, picks the music and scoops the ice cream in summer at this snappy little bar on the square.
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AROUND ALONNISOS
Alonnisos’ main road reaches the northern tip of the island at Gerakas (19km), home to an EU-funded marine research station. Six kilometres north of Patitiri, another sealed road branches off to the small fishing port and yacht harbour of Steni Vala, and follows the shore past Kalamakia for 5km. A third road takes you from Patitiri to Megalos Mourtias.
Maria’s Votsi Pension ( 24240 65510; www.pension-votsi.gr; Votsi; d/tr from €30/55; ) occupies a perfect little corner of Votsi, just 100m from the bay. Rooms are immaculate and comfortable, and owner Maria’s hospitality is everywhere. Nearby, Milia Bay Hotel Apartments ( 24240 66036; www.milia-bay.gr; d/apt from €85/160; ) spread out over the hillside, with large, well-appointed and self-catering studio apartments.
The island’s east coast is home to several small bays and beaches. The first one of note, tiny Rousoum, is tucked between Patitiri and Votsi and very popular with local families. Next is the sandy and gently sloping Hrysi Milia Beach, another kid-friendly beach. Two kilometres on, Cape Kokkinokastro is the site of the ancient city of Ikos, with remains of city walls under the sea. Continuing north, the road branches off 4km to Leftos Gialos, with a lovely pebble beach and the superb Taverna Eleonas ( 24240 66066; mains €5-10), with outstanding versions of traditional pites (pies), vegie dolmas (dolmadhes) and excellent wine made by owner Nikos.
Steni Vala, a small fishing village and deep-water yacht port with a permanent population of no more than 30, has two small but decent beaches; pebbly Glyfa just above the village and sandy Agios Petros just below. There are 50-odd rooms in domatia, a few villas, as well as modest Ikaros Camping ( 24240 65772; camp sites per adult/tent €5/5), decently shaded by olive trees. Try Ikaros Café & Market ( 24240 65390) for reliable lodging information and more. The owner, Kostas, also runs the splendid museum in Patitiri. Four tavernas overlook the small marina, with Taverna Kalimnia ( 24240 65748; mains €4-8) claiming the best views of the harbour.
Kalamakia, 2km further north, is the last village of note, and has a few domatia and tavernas. The fishing boats usually tie up directly in front of Margarita’s Taverna ( 24240 65738; mains €6-15), where the morning catch of fish and lobster seems to jump from boat to plate. Simple and spotless rooms are available at Pension Niki ( 24240 65989; s/d €30/50; ).
Beyond Kalamakia, the sealed road continues 3km to a wetland marsh and Agios Dimitrios Beach, with a canteen and domatia opposite a graceful stretch of white pebbles. Beyond this, the road narrows to a footpath heading inland.
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THE ORIGINAL CHEESE PIE
Tyropita (cheese pie) is almost deified in its birthplace, the northern Sporades. The popular pie is made with goat cheese which is rolled in delicate filo dough, coiled up, then fried quickly and served hot – a method that evolved in the wood-oven kitchens of Alonnisos.
However, the pie’s origins are open to debate. Alonnisos residents claim their delicacy was appropriated by Skopelos in the 1950s, following the collapse of the cottage wine industry. Struggling Alonnisos farmers went to work on neighbouring Skopelos, picking plums. Their salty cheese pie lasted all day in the fields. Not surprisingly, it also made its way into the country kitchens of Skopelos, where residents claim that the treat was a motherly invention. This version has it that, when spanakopita (spinach pies) were slowly baking,