Greece - Korina Miller [546]
In the 1990s a popular daytime TV host touted the pie, but credited Skopelos with its origin. Predictably, frozen ‘Skopelos Cheese Pie’ soon showed up on mainland supermarket shelves. Today you can even buy it in the Athens’ airport departure lounge, ‘the deterioration of an imitation’, according to a long-time Alonnisos resident, Pakis. Don’t count on the frozen pie resembling the original and superior version.
On both Alonnisos and Skopelos there are now breakfast versions with sugar and cinnamon, and others using wild greens or lamb, especially popular in winter with red wine. But stunned Alonnisos folk still can’t get over what’s happened to their simple and delicious recipe. As one Skopelos businesswoman, Mahi, confided, ‘Basically, we stole it!’
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ISLETS AROUND ALONNISOS
Alonnisos is surrounded by eight uninhabited islets, all of which are rich in flora and fauna. Piperi, the furthest island northeast of Alonnisos, is a refuge for the monk seal and is strictly off-limits. Gioura, also off-limits, is home to an unusual species of wild goat known for the crucifix-shaped marking on its spine. Excursion boats can visit an old monastery and olive press on Kyra Panagia. The most remote of the group, Psathoura, boasts the submerged remains of an ancient city and the brightest lighthouse in the Aegean.
Peristera, just off Alonnisos’ east coast, has several sandy beaches and the remains of a castle. Nearby Lehousa is known for its stalactite-filled sea caves. Skantzoura, to the southeast of Alonnisos, is the habitat of the Eleanora’s falcon and the rare Audouin’s seagull. The eighth island in the group, situated between Peristera and Skantzoura, is known as Dio Adelphi (Two Brothers); each ‘brother’ is actually a small island, both home to vipers, according to local fishermen who refuse to step foot on either.
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SKYROS ΣΚΥΡΟΣ
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Skyros is the largest of the Sporades group, though it can seem like two islands – the small bays, rolling farmland and pine forests of the north, and the arid hills and rocky shoreline of the south.
In Byzantine times, rogues and criminals exiled here from the mainland entered into a mutually lucrative collaboration with invading pirates. The exiles became the elite of Skyrian society, decorating their houses with pirate booty looted from merchant ships: hand-carved furniture, ceramic plates and copper ornaments from Europe, the Middle East and East Asia. Today, similar items adorn almost every Skyrian house.
In Greek mythology, Skyros was the hiding place of young Achilles. boxed text, for more information about the Skyros Lenten Carnival and its traditions, which allude to Achilles’ heroic feats.
Skyros was also the last port of call for the English poet Rupert Brooke (1887–1915), who died of septicaemia on a French hospital ship off the coast of Skyros en route to the Battle of Gallipoli. Today a number of expats, particularly English and Dutch, have made Skyros their home.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Skyros airport has flights to/from Athens and Thessaloniki and occasional charter flights from Oslo and Amsterdam. Winter flights operate between Skyros and Thessaloniki three times per week (Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday). Also in winter, there are flights to Athens twice weekly (Tuesday and Saturday).
For tickets, contact Olympic Air ( 210 966 6666; www.olympicairlines.com) or visit Skyros Travel Agency ( 22220 91600; www.skyrostravel.com; Agoras St). For flight details, Island Hopping.
BOAT
Skyros’ main port is Linaria, with ferry links to Evia (Paralia Kymis) and to Alonnisos and Skopelos in summer. For details Island Hopping.
You can buy tickets from Achileas ticket office ( 22220 91790; fax 22220 91792; Agoras; 9am-1pm & 7-10pm) on Agoras in Skyros Town. There is also a ferry ticket kiosk at the dock in Linaria, and another