Greece - Korina Miller [548]
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Skyros Town has two museums. The not-to-be-missed Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum ( 22220 91232; www.faltaits.gr; Plateia Rupert Brooke; admission €2; 10am-2pm & 6-9pm) is a one-of-a-kind private museum housing the outstanding collection of a Skyrian ethnologist, Manos Faltaïts, and detailing the mythology and folklore of Skyros. The 19th-century mansion is a labyrinth of Skyrian costumes and embroidery, antique furniture and ceramics, daggers and cooking pots, vintage photographs and a small gift shop.
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SKYROS CARNIVAL
In this wild pre-Lenten festival, which takes place on the last four weekends before Clean Monday (Kathara Deftera, or Shrove Monday – the first Monday in Lent, 40 days before Easter), young men portray their elders’ vigour as they don goat masks, hairy jackets and dozens of copper goat bells, often weighing up to 30kg. They then proceed to clank and dance with intricate steps through the town, each with a male partner (‘korela’), dressed up as a Skyrian bride but also wearing a goat mask. During these revelries there is singing and dancing, performances of plays, recitations of satirical poems and much drinking and feasting. Women and children join in, wearing fancy dress as well. These strange goings-on are overtly pagan, with elements of Dionysian festivals, including goat worship. In ancient times, as today, Skyros was renowned for its goat’s meat and milk.
The transvestism evident in the carnival seems to derive from the cult of Achilles associated with Skyros in Greek mythology. According to legend, the island was the childhood hiding place for the boy Achilles, whose mother, Thetis, feared a prophecy requiring her son’s skills in the Trojan War. The boy was given to the care of King Lykomides of Skyros, who raised him disguised as one of his own daughters. Young Achilles was outwitted, however, by Odysseus, who arrived with jewels and finery for the girls, along with a sword and shield. When Achilles alone showed interest in the weapons, Odysseus discovered his secret, then persuaded him to go to Troy where he distinguished himself in battle. This annual festival is the subject of Joy Koulentianou’s book The Goat Dance of Skyros.
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The adjacent Archaeological Museum ( 22220 91327; Plateia Rupert Brooke; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) features excellent examples of Mycenaean pottery found near Magazia and, best of all, a traditional Skyrian house interior, transported in its entirety from the benefactor’s home.
Every year around mid-September, Skyros is host to a half-marathon ( 22220 92789), which starts in Atsitsa and ends at the town square in Skyros Town, with drummers welcoming the first runners across the finish line. A mini-marathon for the children sets the tone, followed by music and dancing.
Courses
Reiki courses are offered by long-time island resident and reiki master Janet Smith ( 22220 93510; Skyros Town; www.simplelifeskyros.com). It’s on the south edge of Skyros Town.
Skyros is home to the British-based holistic holiday centre retreat, the Skyros Centre ( 22220 92842; www.skyros.com), with facilities both in town and Atsitsa. One- and two-week residential courses feature ever-changing themes ranging from yoga and Greek cooking to sailing and the art of flirting.
Tours
feel ingreece ( 22220 93100; www.feelingreece.com; Agora St) is a new endeavour by hard-working local owner Chrysanthi Zygogianni, dedicated to helping sustain the best of Skyrian culture. The focus is on the local arts and the island environment. The office arranges hiking excursions to glimpse wild Skyrian ponies. Boat trips and diving courses, pottery, woodcarving and cooking lessons, scuba diving and Greek dancing are among the offerings. Says Chrysanthi, ‘I think tourism should be healthy and supporting something authentic for the community.’ Prices start from around €30.
A day-long boat excursion (€35) to the Gerania sea caves on the southeast coast or nearby Sarakino Islet includes lunch and a swim. Contact Skyros Travel for details.
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