Greece - Korina Miller [549]
Sleeping
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Hotel Elena ( /fax 22220 91738; s/d/tr €30/45/55; ) A rooftop bar doubles as a breakfast spot on summer mornings here. Rooms are big and comfy, and it’s just 100m past the square, easy to find after a night on the town.
Atherinis Rooms ( 22220 93510, 6979292976; www.simplelifeskyros.com; d/apt from €45/60; ) Welcoming owners Dimitris Atherinis and English transplant Janet Smith are constantly attending to detail at these self-catering apartments (300m below the bus stop). Spacious double rooms feature hand-tiled baths and overlook a well-tended garden. Breakfast (€5) includes fresh juice and homemade bread.
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TOP FIVE SKYRIAN POTTERY STUDIOS
Skyros is unique for its centuries-old collections of fine and unusual ceramics, dating from the days when passing pirates collaborated with rogue residents, whose houses became virtual galleries for pirate booty, ceramics included. To see the evolution of this island art, make a tour of these favourites:
Yiannis Komboyiannis
Stamatis Ftoulis (opposite)
Stathis Katsarelias (opposite)
Ioanna Asnmenou Ceramics (right)
Efrossini Varsamou-Nikolaou (opposite)
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Pension Nikolas ( 22220 91778; fax 22220 93400; s/d/tr €50/60/70; ) Set back on a small, quiet road, this comfortable and friendly pension is only a five-minute walk to busy Agoras. The upper rooms have air conditioning and balconies; the lower rooms have fans and open onto a shady garden.
TOP END
Hotel Nefeli & Dimitrios Studios ( 22220 91964; www.skyros-nefeli.gr; d/studios/ste incl breakfast €125/190/300; ) This smart hotel on the edge of town has an easy minimalist-meets-Skyrian feel to it, with vintage photographs, handsome furnishings and swank bathrooms. The adjacent family-size studios are part of a remodelled Skyrian house. Both properties share a saltwater swimming pool and bar.
Eating
Skyros welcomes a steady number of visiting Athenians, with the pleasant result that island cooks do not cater to touristy tongues.
Taverna Lambros ( 22220 92498; mains €5-8.50) Family-run and roadside Lambros is just 3km south of Skyros Town in Aspous. Generous-sized dishes include lamb and pork grills, fresh fish gumbo and Skyrian cheese bread.
Maryetis Restaurant ( 22220 91311; Agoras; mains €6-9) The local favourite, by far, for grilled fish and octopus stifadho, Skyrian goat in lemon sauce, along with hearty soups and mezedhes such as black-eyed beans and bean dip.
O Pappous kai Ego ( 22220 93200; Agoras; mains €6-9) The name of this small taverna means ‘my grandfather and me’, and it’s easy to see how one generation of family recipes followed another. Mezedhes are excellent, especially broad-bean dip and Skyrian dolmadhes made with a touch of goat’s milk.
Drinking
Nightlife in Skyros Town centres mostly around the bars on Agoras; the further north you go away from the plateia, the more mellow the sounds.
Kalypso ( 22220 92160; Agoras; ) Classy Kalypso plays lots of jazz and blues, and owner-bartender Hristos makes a killer margarita, along with homemade sangria. A side room sports an internet connection.
Rodon ( 22220 92168; Agoras) This smart and comfortable late-night hang-out is a mellow spot to end the evening. Bonus points for big drinks and fresh juices.
Agora Café-Bar ( 22220 92535; Agoras; ) Next to the post office at the back of the main square, this cosy bar offers free wi-fi and a welcoming atmosphere.
Shopping
Argo ( 22220 92158; Agoras) Argo specialises in high-quality copies of ceramics from the Faltaïts Museum.
Andreou Woodcarving ( 22220 92926; Agoras) Get a close look at the intricate designs that distinguish traditional Skyrian furniture at this handsome shop on upper Agoras.
Leyteris Avgoklouris ( 22220 91106) Equally interesting is this open workshop in the nearby village of Aspous.
Ioanna Asnmenou Ceramics ( 22220 92723; Agoras) An oasis of fine work near the busy main square.
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