Greece - Korina Miller [550]
MAGAZIA & MOLOS ΜΑΓΑΖΙΑ & ΜΩΛΟΣ
The resort of Magazia, a compact and attractive place of winding alleys, is at the southern end of a splendid, long sandy beach, situated a short distance north of Skyros Town. Skinny-dippers can leave it all behind at Papa Houma near the southern end of Magazia.
At the northern end of the beach, once-sleepy Molos now has its own share of decent tavernas and rooms. Its landmark windmill and adjacent rock-hewn Church of Agios Nikolaos are easy to spot.
Activities
Several potters spin their wheels in Magazia without bothering to put a sign out, but they are happy to see visitors, and some of their exceptional work is for sale. Stathis Katsarelias ( 22220 92918) runs a studio on the small lane between the main road and Taverna Stefanos; he also offers drop-in pottery workshops for adults, kids and whoever wants to get their hands muddy. The studios of Efrossini Varsamou-Nikolaou ( 22220 91142) are in the Deidamia Hotel. Just down from Taverna Stefanos, you’ll find the workshop of Stamatis Ftoulis ( 22220 91559).
Sleeping
Georgia Tsakamis Rooms ( 22220 91357; gtsakamis@yahoo.gr; Magazia; d/tr €45/50; ) You can’t get much closer to the sand and sea than at these geranium-adorned domatia 20m from the beach, opposite a handy car park.
Deidamia Hotel ( 22220 92008; www.deidamia.com; d/tr/f from €45/50/70; ) The spacious and tidy Deidamia is on the road entering Magazia, opposite a small market. Look for the bougainvillea garden and rooftop solar panels.
Ariadne Apartments ( 22220 91113; www.ariadnestudios.gr; d/apt from €65/95; ) Just 50m from the beach at Magazia, these inviting studios and two-room apartments enclose a small courtyard and breakfast cafe (with great pastries). Handsome rooms have fully equipped kitchens and are decorated with original artwork.
Perigiali Studios ( 22220 92075; www.perigiali.com; d/tr/apt incl breakfast from €75/90/180; ) Perigiali feels secluded despite being only 50m from the beach. One part of the compound features Skyrian-style rooms overlooking a garden with pear, apple and apricot trees, while a new upscale wing sports a pool with swank view apartments. English-speaking owner Amalia is full of ideas for travellers.
Eating & Drinking
Juicy Beach Bar ( 22220 93337; snacks €2-5; Magazia) Escape the midday sun or chill under the stars at busy Juicy’s, with breakfast throughout the day.
Stefanos Taverna ( 22220 91272; mains €4.50-8) Sit on the terrace of this traditional eatery overlooking Magazia Beach, and choose from a range of point-and-eat dishes, wild greens, souvlakia and fresh fish by the kilo. Breakfast omelettes start at €3.50.
Oi Istories Tou Barba (My Uncle’s Stories; 22220 91453; Molos; mains €4-10) Look for the light blue railing above the beach in Molos to find this excellent cafe and tsipouradhiko with well-prepared prawn and octopus mezedhes.
Thalassa Beach Bar (Sea; 22220 92044; Molos) This thoroughly modern beach bar somehow blends in with easy-going Molos. Maybe it’s the mojitos and full-moon parties.
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AROUND SKYROS
Linaria Λιαρι
Linaria, the port of Skyros, is tucked into a small bay filled with bobbing fishing boats and a few low-key tavernas and ouzeries. Things perk up briefly whenever the Achileas ferry comes in, its surreal arrival announced with the booming sound of Richard Strauss’ Also Sprach Zarathustra blasting from the speakers at a hillside bar above the port; the acoustics would make any audio engineer proud.
You can practically stumble off the ferry and into King Lykomides Rooms to Let ( 22220 93249, 6972694434; soula@skyrosnet.gr; r incl breakfast €45-60; ), an efficient domatio managed by the hospitable Soula Pappas. It has well-maintained rooms, each with balcony.
Join the port regulars under the big plane tree at the friendly Taverna O Platanos ( 22220 91995; mains €5-7), which has well-prepared grilled octopus and fried gavros, plus oven-ready chicken and potatoes, and generous Greek salads.
For drinks at sunset there’s Kavos Bar ( 22220 93213; drinks