Greece - Korina Miller [559]
Hugging the coast north from Pyrgi, the first decent place is Barbati where there’s a shingle beach and a water-sports centre. Further on is Agni renowned for its three competing tavernas – Taverna Toula ( 26630 91350), Taverna Nikolas ( 26630 91243) and Taverna Agni ( 26630 91142), all of which serve excellent food. The bay-side village of Kalami is famous for the picturesque White House, perched above the water. For a time it was home to Lawrence and Nancy Durrell. The Durrell family are famously associated with Corfu and lived on the island for many years prior to WWII. Lawrence became an outstanding writer and one of his nonfiction books was Prospero’s Cell, a lyrical evocation of Corfu. His brother Gerald’s equally splendid book, My Family and Other Animals, was based on the Durrell family’s eccentric and idyllic life on the island during the 1930s. There are tavernas and rooms at Kalami. North again is Agios Stefanos another attractive fishing village and resort nestled in a sheltered bay and with a shingle beach.
Avlaki lies beyond a wooded headland north of Agios Stefanos and has a substantial beach with very little development and only a couple of tavernas, including the friendly Cavo Barbaro ( 26630 81905; mains €5.50-15). It can catch the wind and is popular for windsurfing.
Kassiopi is a likeable, though very busy place, its streets crammed with shops, tavernas and bars. It’s noted for fine embroidery and several shops sell pieces. The town’s infrastructure was refurbished in 2009 with the harbour area getting an attractive facelift. Kassiopi’s strategic headland was an outpost of Corinth and saw Roman and Venetian settlement. Nero is said to have holidayed outrageously here, while today, British politicians have been guests at the Rothschild estate that lies south of Kassiopi behind the best constructed walls in Corfu, while the mega ‘yacht’ of Russian oligarch Oleg Deripaska has been known to drop anchor offshore. Nero would have been beside himself with excitement.
In Kassiopi’s main street, opposite the church of the Blessed Virgin, steps climb to the ruins of the Venetian castle, which was being renovated at the time of writing. You can also walk over the headland to the nearby Battaria and Kanoni Beaches. Beyond Kassiopi, the main road heads west along Corfu’s north coast past the hugely popular and custom-made resorts of Aharavi, Roda and Sidhari, all served by a succession of beaches. At New Perithia halfway between Kassiopi and Aharavi is the Art of Olive Wood ( 26630 51596; www.olive-wood.gr) a showroom full of authentic artefacts by craftsman Costas Avlonitis. His main workshop is in a lovely setting at Kavadades near Arillas and Agios Georgios (see opposite).
Corfu’s other Agios Stefanos is on the island’s northwest coast and has a large sandy beach. From the nearby fishing harbour regular excursion boats head for the Diapondia Islands, a cluster of little-known satellite islands. For excursion details contact San Stefano Travel ( 26630 51910; www.san-stefano.gr).
Sleeping & Eating
Dionysus Camping Village ( 26610 91417; www.dionysuscamping.gr; camp sites per adult/child/car/tent €5.80/3.50/3.50/4, huts per person €11.50; ) The closest camping ground to Corfu Town, signposted between Tzavros and Dasia and well served by bus 7, has good facilities. Tents can also be hired for €9 per person, or you can opt for simple pine-clad huts with straw roofs
Casa Lucia ( 26610 91419; www.casa-lucia-corfu.com; Sgombou; studios & cottages €70-120; year-round; ) A garden complex of lovely studios and cottages, Casa Lucia has a strong artistic and alternative ethos and a warm ambience. There are yoga, t’ai chi and Pilates sessions, art,