Greece - Korina Miller [560]
Manessis Apartments ( 26610 34990; diana@otenet.gr; Kassiopi; 4-person apt €100; ) It’s hard to pick what’s more pleasant – the friendly Greek-Irish owner, or her homely bougainvillea and vine-covered two-bedroom apartments. The location, at the end of Kassiopi’s picturesque harbour, makes a lovely base. Top-floor apartments have air-conditioning; others have fans.
Little Italy ( 26630 81749; Kassiopi; mains €4.50-18) A longstanding Kassiopi favourite, this restaurant sources its ingredients well. The fresh pasta is the real thing and other pleasures include breast of duck with caramelised oranges and green peppers.
Also recommended:
Taverna Galini ( 26630 81492 Agios Stefanos; mains €5-12) Fresh local fish are displayed front of house at this efficient restaurant that does a fine seafood pasta and some creative salads and hefty steaks.
Piedra del Mar ( 26630 91566; Barbati; mains €7-22) Beachfront chic goes with terrific Mediterranean and international cuisine at this expensive restaurant.
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SOUTH OF CORFU TOWN
The coast road continues south from Corfu Town with a turn-off to well-signposted Ahillion Palace ( 26610 56245; adult/concession €7/5; 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar, 8am-7pm Apr-Oct) near the village of Gastouri. The Ahillion was built in the 1890s by the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, known as Sisi, as a retreat from the world and in tribute to her hero, Achilles. (Poor Sisi was later assassinated on the shores of Lake Geneva by a deranged anarchist.) Kaiser Wilhelm II bought the palace in 1908, extending the themes of both imperialism and self-aggrandisement by adding to the gardens a ferocious statue of Achilles Triumphant, before leaving Corfu for something less than triumph in 1914. The palace is a major coach tour destination. Get there early for a fascinating journey through heavily accented neoclassicism, fabulous furnishings and bold statuary, along a very thin line between style and kitsch.
South of the Ahillion is the resort of Benitses, enhanced by its pleasant old village, from where tracks and paths lead into the steep, wooded slopes above. The taverna O Paxinos ( 26610 72339; Benitses) is noted for its mezedhes and fish dishes (by the kilo). Further south again are the popular beach resorts of Moraitika and Messonghi, from where the winding coastal road leads south to the tranquil Boukari with its little harbour and waterside tavernas, including the good psarotaverna (fish restaurant) Spiros Karidis ( 26620 51205; Boukari). You can stay at the pleasant Golden Sunset Hotel ( 26620 51853; Boukari; d incl breakfast €60-65, tr incl breakfast €70). A restaurant is attached.
Lefkimmi, just over 10km from Boukari in the southern part of the island, is one of Corfu’s most authentic towns, and still gets on with everyday life. Fascinating churches are dotted throughout the older section, and it’s divided by a rather quaint, but sometimes odorous, canal. Eat at the River Restaurant (To Potami) ( 69725 42153; mains €5-15), which has been blessed by UK celebrity chef Rick Stein for his Mediterranean Escapes TV show. They have decent, if slightly old-fashioned, rooms and apartments from €40 to €60.
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WEST COAST
Some of Corfu’s prettiest countryside, villages and beaches are situated on the west coast. The scenic and very popular resort of Paleokastritsa, 26km from Corfu Town, rambles for nearly 3km down a valley to a series of small, picturesque coves hidden between tall cliffs. Craggy mountains swathed in cypresses and olive trees tower above. You can venture to nearby grottoes or one of the dozen or so local beaches by small excursion boat (per person €8.20, 30 minutes), or water taxis can drop you off at a beach of your choice. There’s a range of water-boat activities available. Cool sun-seekers can hang out at cafe-bar La Grotta ( 26630 41006; Paleokastritsa), which is set in a stunning rocky