Greece - Korina Miller [561]
Perched on the rocky promontory at the end of Paleokastritsa is the icon-filled Moni Theotokou (admission free; 7am-1pm & 3-8pm), a monastery founded in the 13th century (although the present building dates from the 18th century). Just off the monastery’s garden – with ivy, vines, roses and pot plants – is a small museum (admission free; 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Apr-Oct). Most interesting is the olive mill exhibition under the museum, with a small shop selling oils and herbs.
From Paleokastritsa a path ascends to the unspoilt village of Lakones, 5km inland by road. Be sure to check out the town’s only kafeneio (coffee house) – Kafeneio Olympia – and the village’s growing photographic archive ( 26630 41771-3) where local man Vassilis Michalas has assembled a remarkable archive of photographs that form a vivid record of island life. Lakones’ not-for-profit photographic archive is housed in the Lakones’ choral group’s practice room in the village’s municipal building. Interested visitors can phone ahead.
Quaint Doukades has a historic square and pleasant tavernas. The 6km road north from Paleokastritsa to Krini and Makrades climbs steeply to spectacular views; many restaurant owners have capitalised on the vistas. A left turn towards the coast leads through Krini’s miniature town square and on down to Angelokastro, the ruins of a Byzantine castle and the most western bastion on Corfu.
Further north, via the village of Pagi, are the pleasant beach resorts of Agios Georgios and Arillas with between them the knuckly headland of Cape Arillas with the little village of Afionas straggling up its spine.
South of Paleokastritsa, the pebbly beach at Ermones is dominated by heavy development, but clings to its claim of being the beach on which Odysseus was washed ashore and where Nausicaa, daughter of King Alcinous, just happening to be sunning herself. Hilltop Pelekas, 4km south, is perched above wooded cliffs and one-time hippy beaches. This likeable village still attracts independent travellers.
The Triklino Vineyard ( 26610 58184, 69458 90285; www.triklinovineyard.gr; adult/under 6yr €7/free; noon-5pm Tue-Sun) 6km from Corfu Town on the Pelekas road near Karoubatika blends culture with viniculture at its delightful complex where some enticing wines are produced from local vines such as Kakotrygis. There’s a tour of an olive-oil mill and winery, and wine tasting and Corfiot mezedhes. They also run a series of cultural activities and performances.
Near Pelekas village are two sandy beaches, Glyfada and Pelekas (marked on some maps as Kontogialos, and also a resort in its own right), with water sports and sunbeds galore. These beaches are quite developed and are backed by large hotels and accommodation options. A free bus service runs from Pelekas village to these beaches. Further north is the popular, but dwindling (due to erosion) Myrtiotissa beach; the former unofficial nudist ‘colony’ has more or less merged with the happy families section, save for some giant boulders in between. It’s a long slog down a steep, partly surfaced road before you see a bottom of any kind (drivers should park in the parking area on the hilltop). The taverna and bar, Elia, part way down, makes a welcome break.
Agios Gordios is a popular resort south of Glyfada where a long sandy beach can cope with the crowds.
Just along the turn off from the main road to Halikounas Beach is the Byzantine Gardiki Castle, which has a picturesque entranceway, but is entirely empty inside. Just south of the castle is the vast Lake Korission, separated from the sea by a narrow spit that is fronted by a long sandy beach where you can usually escape from the crowds.
Sleeping
Paleokastritsa has many hotels, studios and a few domatia (rooms, usually in private homes) spread along the road. Further south, in the Pelekas area, there are also plenty of sleeping options.
Paleokastritsa Camping ( 26630 41204; www.paleokastritsaholidays.com; Paleokastritsa; camp sites