Greece - Korina Miller [564]
The charming Cultural Museum (admission €2; 10am-2pm & 7-11pm), in a former school on the southern waterfront, has an eclectic collection of fossils, farming and domestic artefacts, pottery, guns, coins and clothing. Brace yourself for the 17th-century wedding night ‘facilitator’ that might just be described as quaint. A room is devoted to the paintings of the Paxiot priest Christodoulos Aronis.
At the far southern end of the harbour is a striking statue of Georgios Anemogiannis, a local sea captain who died heroically in 1821, aged 23, during the Greek War of Independence. The sea has ‘greened’ Georgios rather vividly.
Sleeping
San Giorgio Apartments ( 26620 32223; s/d/tr €40/70/90) Pink, blue and white are the colours of these airy and clean studios with basic cooking facilities. Head towards town from the port by the lower (pedestrian) harbour road, and follow the signposted steps.
Thekli Studios (Clara Studios; 26620 32313; d €75; ) Thekli, a local fisher-diver and energetic personality about town, runs these immaculate and well-equipped studios. She will meet you at the port if you call ahead. Otherwise, go up the alleyway to the left of the museum, turn left and then, in 50m, turn right and up some steps for another 50m.
Paxos Beach Hotel ( 26620 32211; www.paxosbeachhotel.gr; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from €88/117/146/165, ste €168-380; ) In a prime location 1.5km south of Gaïos these bungalow-style rooms step down to the sea and have a range of rooms from standard to superior. There’s a private jetty, tennis court, beach, bar and restaurant.
Eating
Capriccio Café Creperie ( 26620 32687; crêpes €3-6) For a cheap and filling sweet or savoury experience, head past the museum to this waterfront crêperie. They do breakfast for €3 to €7.80 and sandwiches for €3 to €4.
Taverna Vasilis ( 26620 32596; mains €6.50-14) The owner of this eatery is a former butcher, and knows the best meat for tasty spit-roasts and other meaty servings. It’s just back from the mid waterfront.
Karkaletzos ( 26620 32729; mains €7-10) Walk up an appetite to this grill house, the locals’ choice, 1km behind town. Meat dishes are balanced by some creative fish cuisine.
Taka Taka ( 26620 32329; mains €6-22) For upmarket seafood (€40 to €75 per kilogram) in attractive surroundings, this popular place is behind the main square. Go left from the left-hand inner corner of the square, then, after 30m, turn right.
The supermarket is west of the central square. Two excellent bakeries, one on the waterfront, the other near the main square, serve Paxiot delights. Gloria’s, at the north end of the waterfront, tempts with some deeply sinful ice cream flavours.
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LOGGOS ΛΟΓΓΟΣ
Loggos is 5km northwest of Gaïos and is a mini-gem of a place with a pretty waterfront curled round a small bay. Bars and restaurants overlook the water and wooded slopes climb steeply above. There are coves and pebble beaches nearby. Café Bar Four Seasons ( 26620 31829; per hr €6) has internet facilities.
You can hire boats and scooters from Julia’s Boat & Bike ( 26620 31330) at Arthur House (see below); boats are €60 to €70 per day and scooters about €25.
Sleeping & Eating
Studio ( 26620 31397, 26620 31030; d €55) A pleasantly bohemian – and bougainvillea – choice, this studio sits above the gift shop Marbou, just in from the waterfront. It’s best to book in advance.
Arthur House ( 26620 31330; studio €75, apt €110) These modest and spotless studios are above the owner’s house, a two-minute walk from the waterfront. Julia’s Boat & Bike (above) hire is part of the family deal.
O Gios ( 26620 31735/30062; mains €6-16) A step back from the waterfront is this unvarnished