Greece - Korina Miller [565]
Vasilis ( 26620 31587; mains €8-14) An unexpected treat, this well run, stylish place features a clever menu card in the shape of a facsimile newspaper of the 1970s. Specialities include octopus in red wine sauce and lamb casserole as well as pasta and risotto.
Drinking
There are several cafes and bars in Loggos with favourites for cocktails and music being the waterside To Taxidi and Roxy Bar.
Kafeneio Burnaos (Magazia) Don’t blink or you’ll miss this wonderful 60-year-old kafeneio, located in Magazia, several kilometres southwest of Loggos. There are no set hours, but locals gather here to play cards and backgammon (there’s even a set from 1957).
Erimitis Bar ( 689777 53499; Magazia) A growing reputation has made this out-of-the-way place increasingly popular, especially for sunset viewing. It’s down lanes and tracks towards the west coast from Magazia and you need transport.
Return to beginning of chapter
LAKKA ΛΑΚΚΑ
The picturesque, tranquil and unspoiled harbour of Lakka lies at the end of a protective bay on the north coast. It’s a popular yacht anchorage, and there are plenty of facilities as well as bars and restaurants. Small, but reasonable beaches lie round the bay’s headland, including Harami Beach, and there are pleasant walks nearby.
Routsis Holidays ( 26620 31807/31129; www.routsis-holidays.com) is tucked away inland and Planos Holidays ( 26620 31744; www.planos-holidays.gr) is on the waterfront. Both are helpful agencies responsible for well-appointed apartments and villas for all budgets.
Paxos Blue Waves ( 26620 31162) on the waterfront rents boats for €35 to €65 and scooters for €18 to €20.
For a Bali experience in Corfu, visit the colourful Il Pareo ( 69721 64089) for a great collection of Indonesian Batik and other items.
For accommodation try the immaculate and comfy Yorgos Studios ( 26620 31807/31129; www.routsis-holidays.com; s/d €50/65; ) next door to the Routsis Holidays office and run by the company. The owners of Il Pareo also have an away-from-it-all garden studio ( 69721 64089; ste €70).
Unfussy food and drink and internet (€3 per half hour) can be had at the waterside Arriva Taverna ( 26620 30153; mains €8-13.80). A popular local place is Diogenis ( 26620 31442; mains €4.20-9.80) in the square at the back of the village. Cuttlefish with spinach and lamb in lemon sauce are well done classics. For something special head along the shore on the right-hand side of the bay to a little beach and to the Italian-influenced La Bocca ( 26620 31991; mains €8-18) for proper caprese or spaghetti with fresh tuna, amid colourful decor.
Return to beginning of chapter
ANTIPAXI ΑΝΤΙΠΑΞΟΙ
pop 25
The stunning and diminutive island of Antipaxi, 2km south of Paxi, is covered with grape vines, olives and with the occasional small hamlet here and there. Caïques and tourist boats run daily from Gaïos and Lakka, and pull in at two beach coves, the small, sandy Vrika Beach and the pretty, pebbly Voutoumi Beach. Floating in the water here – with its dazzling clarity – is a sensational experience.
An inland path links the two beaches (a 30-minute walk), or if you are more of an energetic person you can walk up to the village of Vigla, or as far as the lighthouse at the southernmost tip. Take plenty of water and allow 1½ hours minimum each way. Voutoumi Beach has two eateries – Bella Vista and a taverna on the beach. Vrika Beach also has two good competing tavernas – Spiros and Vrika. Main meals at both cost between €7 and €15 and fish dishes can be very pricey.
Accommodation is available through one or two of the beach tavernas. Boats to Antipaxi (from €6 return) leave Gaïos at 10am and return around 5.30pm – there are more services in high season.
Return to beginning of chapter
LEFKADA ΛΕΥΚΑΔΑ
pop 22,500
Lefkada (or Lefkas), the fourth-largest island of the Ionians, is an absorbing destination, mountainous and in places remote. Yet it has its fair share of holiday resorts and tourism facilities and seems less insular than most, not least because