Greece - Korina Miller [574]
Sleeping
Karavomilos Beach Camping ( 26740 22480; www.camping-karavomilos.gr; Sami; camp sites per adult/car/tent €7.50/3.50/6; ) This is a large, award-winning camping ground in a great beachfront location, with plenty of facilities.
Hotel Melissani ( 26740 22464; Sami; d/tr €65/78) Unashamed retro style welcomes you at this very tall, very slim building some way in from the waterfront. Even the bar goes all out with swivelling vinyl bar stools, marble floors and groovy tiles. The smallish rooms have balconies with views of either mountains or sea.
Hotel Kastro ( 26740 22656; www.kastrohotel.com; Sami; s/d/tr €70/95/120) At the heart of town, the Kastro is essentially resort modern, but a reasonable option.
Eating
Sami’s waterfront is lined with fairly standard eateries.
Dolphins ( 26740 22008; mains €5-20) The best of the waterfront line-up, Dolphins adds value very cleverly by staging lively Greek music nights. The food is excellent Kefallonian traditional with favourites such as baked rabbit, while fish lovers can dig into a sizable seafood platter.
Paradise Beach ( 26740 61392; mains €6.50-13, fish per kilogram €48-52; Agia Evfymia) Bear right past the harbourfront tavernas at Agia Evfymia and keep going until the road ends at the famous Paradise, where the cast of an equally famous movie used to eat every night. Penny and Nick may be long gone, but the dolmadhes and Kefallonia meat pie are still fantastic, as is the salted cod in garlic sauce, while the welcome is unfailingly upbeat and the views outstanding.
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ASSOS ΑΣΟΣ
Tiny Assos is an upmarket gem of whitewashed and pastel houses, straddling the isthmus of a peninsula on which stands a Venetian fortress. The fortress is a pleasant place to hike to and around, with superlative views and a great historical ambience.
For accommodation, try the Pension Gerania ( 26740 51526; www.pensiongerania.gr; d incl breakfast €85; ). It does what it says on the label at this pension with its lush garden full of geraniums, while the light and appealing rooms have pleasant views. Follow the pension (and parking) sign at the top of the hill as you enter town.
Cosi’s Inn ( 26740 51420, 69367 54330; www.cosisinn.gr; 2-/3-person studio €113/129; ) is not typically ‘Greek’ but has the marks of the young and hip interior designer owner: iron beds and sofas, frosted lights and white decor feature strongly.
For eating, Platanos ( 69446 71804; mains €5.50-13) is in an attractive shady setting near the waterfront. Strong on meat dishes, there are also fish and vegetarian options such as a tasty eggplant, feta and parmesan pie.
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AROUND ASSOS
One of Greece’s most breathtaking and picture-perfect beaches is Myrtos, 8km south of Assos along an exciting stretch of the west coast road. From a roadside viewing area, you can admire and photograph the white sand and shimmering blue water set between tall limestone cliffs far below and you can reach the beach from sea level at Anomeria. Be aware that the beach drops off quickly and sharply, but once you are in the water it’s a heavenly experience. Think clichéd turquoise and aqua water.
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MEMORIES WITHOUT MANDOLINS
Down at the Paradise Beach taverna, the irrepressible Stavros Dendrinos still does exuberance when it comes to memories. As a youngster during WWII, Stavros longed to escape from the strictures of island life. ‘Every time I saw a distant sail, my heart leapt with excitement,’ he says with a smile.
Then, aged 12, during WWII, Stavros joined his uncle in running a tiny sailing motor boat to and from Kefallonia and Piraeus. They carried passengers and small amounts of local produce within strict limits imposed by the German occupiers. Under curfew rules, they had to pull ashore wherever