Greece - Korina Miller [575]
Oh… did someone mention Captain Corelli’s Mandolin and Penelope Cruz (who is said to have dined at the Paradise taverna every night while on location)? ‘Lovely lady,’ says Stavros, graciously, but with his eyes on the sea and distant sails.
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FISKARDO ΦΙΣΚΑΡΔΟ
pop 230
Fiskardo, 50km north of Argostoli, was the only Kefallonian village not devastated by the 1953 earthquake. Framed by cypress-mantled hills and with fine Venetian buildings, it has an authentic picturesque appeal and is popular with well-keeled yachting fans. It has some outstanding restaurants. There’s a car park above the harbour at the south end of the village.
Nautilus Travel ( 26740 41440) towards the ferry quay end of the waterfront is an efficient agency that can help with all your needs. Pama Travel ( 26740 41033; www.pamatravel.com) on the harbour front has foreign exchange facilities and can help with travel services including car and boat hire. It also has internet access (15 minutes €2).
Sleeping
Fiscardo has quite a fair mix of sleeping options and some seriously top-level restaurants.
Regina’s Rooms ( 26740 41125; d/tr €50/60) Friendly Regina runs a popular place that has colourful rooms dotted with plastic flowers. Some rooms have kitchenettes and/or balconies enjoying views over the water. It’s alongside the main car park at the south end of the village.
Villa Romantza ( 26740 41322; www.villa-romantza.gr; r/studio €50/70, apt €80-110; ) An excellent budget choice with simple and clean rooms. It’s found next door to Regina’s rooms on the car park. Cheaper out of season.
Stella Apartments ( 26740 41211; www.stella-apartments.gr; d €105, apt €210; ) Located on the quiet southern outskirts of the village about 800m from the main car park. these apartments have immaculate, spacious studios with kitchens and balconies. There’s a communal dining area.
Emelisse Hotel ( 26740 41200; www.arthotel.gr; d €480-630, ste €510-1800, apt €770-800; year-round; ) In a superb position overlooking the unspoiled Emplisis Bay, this stylish and luxurious hotel has every facility for the pampered holiday. The rooms are beautifully appointed, leafy terraces surround the lavish swimming pool and there’s even a gym and tennis court. Breakfast is included.
Eating & Drinking
Café Tselenti ( 26740 41344; mains €7.50-23) Housed in a lovely 19th-century building, owned by the Tselenti family since 1893, with a romantic outdoor terrace at the heart of the village, the cuisine at this noted restaurant is outstanding. Starters of cheese and mushroom patties and aubergine rolls are superb, as are such mains as linguine with prawns, mussels and crawfish in a tomato sauce or the pork fillet with sundried apricots, dates and fresh pineapple.
Tassia ( 26740 41205; mains €10-25) A complete refurbishment in 2009 has added even more lustre to this Fiskardo institution run by Tassia Dendrinou, celebrated chef and writer on Greek cuisine. Everything is a delight, but specialities include kolokythokeftedhes, baby marrow croquettes and a fisherman’s pasta incorporating finely chopped squid, octopus, mussels and prawns in a magic mix that even includes a dash of cognac. Meat dishes are equally splendid and Tassia’s desserts are famous.
Gaeta Art Bar ( 69322 57027) At the heart of waterfront Fiskardo, the Gaeta is the place for watching the world go by over coffee by day and for cocktails, drinks and good company at night.
Getting There & Away
You can get to/from Fiskardo by ferry to/from Lefkada and Ithaki (for details see Island Hopping, Click here) or by bus to/from Argostoli. The ferry is at one end of the waterfront; ask the bus to drop you at the turn-off, or it’s a 10-minute walk from the car park to the ferry.
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ITHAKI ΙΘΑΚΗ
pop 3700
Sheltered Ithaki