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dreams happily in its lake-like setting between Kefallonia and mainland Greece. The island is celebrated as being the mythical home of Homer’s Odysseus, where loyal wife Penelope waited patiently, while besieged by unsavoury suitors, for Odysseus’s much delayed homecoming. This tranquil island is made up of two large peninsulas that are joined by a narrow isthmus. Sheer cliffs, precipitous mountains and vast swaths of olive groves and cypresses gild this Ionian gem. Attractive villages (much rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake) and hidden coves with pebbly beaches add to the charm, while monasteries and churches offer Byzantine delights and splendid views.

Getting There & Away

Strintzis Lines (www.ferries.gr/strintzis-ferries) has two ferries daily connecting Vathy or Piso Aetos with Patra via Sami on Kefallonia. The ferry Ionian Pelagos runs daily (sometimes twice a day) in high season between Piso Aetos, Sami and Astakos on the mainland. Other ferries run to ever-changing schedules from Vasiliki and Nydri (Lefkada) to Frikes (Ithaki) and Fiskardo (Kefallonia). For details Island Hopping.

Information and tickets for the routes can be obtained from Delas Tours (below) on the main square in Vathy.

One ferry a day runs from Frikes to Fiskardo (€3.80, 55 minutes) and from Frikes to Nydri (€7, 1½ hours). Two ferries a day run from Vathy to Patra (€17.60, 3¾ hours) and two ferries a day run from Piso Aetos to Patra (€17.60, three hours).

Getting Around

Piso Aetos, on Ithaki’s west coast, has no settlement; taxis often meet boats, as does the municipal bus in high season only. The island’s one bus runs twice daily (weekdays only, more often in high season) between Kioni and Vathy via Stavros and Frikes (€3.90), and its limited schedule is not well suited to day-trippers. Taxis are relatively expensive (about €30 for the Vathy–Frikes trip), so your best bet is to hire a moped or car (or a motorboat) to get around. In Vathy, Rent a Scooter ( 26740 32840) is down the lane opposite the port authority. For cars, try Happy Cars – contact Polyctor Tours (below) or Alpha Bike & Car Hire ( 26740 33243) behind Alpha Bank.

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VATHY ΒΑΘΥ

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Ithaki’s pretty main town sprawls along its elongated and square-cut waterfront and has a central square, lined with cafes and restaurants, as the social hub. Narrow lanes wriggle inland from the waterfront.

The ferry quay is on the western side of the bay. To reach the central square (Plateia Efstathiou Drakouli), turn left and follow the waterfront.

Ithaki has no tourist office. Delas Tours ( 26740 32104; www.ithaca.com.gr) and Polyctor Tours ( 26740 33120; www.ithakiholidays.com), both on the main square, can help with tourist information. The main square also has banks with ATMs; the post office; and internet access – try Net (per hr €4).

Sights & Activities

Behind Hotel Mentor is an interesting archaeological museum ( 26740 32200; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) with some notable ancient coins depicting Odysseus. The equally entertaining and informative nautical & folklore museum (admission €1.50; 10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat) is housed in an old generating station one block behind the square.

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HOT HIKES AFTER HOMER

Ithaki’s compact size ensures dramatic scenery changes over short distances on walks that can reveal 360-degree views of the ocean and surrounding islands. Thanks to the efforts of islander Denis Sikiotis and his band of helpers, several cleared and marked trails exist around the island. Mr Sikiotis has prepared brief notes and maps that should be available from the town hall in Vathy. Enjoyable guided walks, including the popular Homer’s Walk on Wednesdays, explore little seen parts of the island and are organised through Island Walks ( 69449 90458; www.xs4all.nl/~rienz/iwalks). Routes are from 5km to 13km and cost €15 to €25.

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Boat excursions on the Albatross ( 69769 01643) leave from Vathy harbour in the summer months and include day trips around Ithaki and to Fiskardo (€30); Lefkada (€35); and ‘unknown islands