Greece - Korina Miller [93]
Herodion (Map; 210 923 6832; www.herodion.com; Rovertou Galli 4, Makrygianni; s/d incl breakfast €152/182; ) This elegant four-star hotel is geared towards the well-heeled traveller. The rooms are small but well appointed, with super-comfortable beds. There is a lovely atrium restaurant, laptops in the foyer and free wi-fi. There are unbeatable Acropolis views from the rooftop spa and lounge.
Periscope (Map; 210 729 7200; www.periscope.gr; Haritos 22, Kolonaki; r €195-225, ste from €325 incl breakfast; ) Right in chic Kolonaki overlooking Lykavittos, Periscope is a smart boutique hotel with industrial decor. There are clever gadgets and design features, including the lobby slide show, the sea-level measure on the stairs, travelling TVs, aerial shots of the city on the ceilings and Korres toiletries. The penthouse’s private rooftop spa has sensational views.
Electra Palace (Map; 210 337 0000; www.electrahotels.gr; Navarhou Nikodimou 18, Plaka; d/ste incl breakfast from €220/560; ) Plaka’s smartest hotel is one for the romantics. You can have breakfast under the Acropolis on your balcony in the front rooms (from €325), and dinner in the rooftop restaurant. Completely refurbished in classic style, the rooms are well appointed. There is an indoor swimming pool and gym as well as a rooftop pool with Acropolis views.
Hotel Grande Bretagne (Map; 210 333 0000; www.grandebretagne.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma; r/ste from €280/420; ) If you are wealthy or aspire to the best, the place to stay in Athens is – and always has been – the Hotel Grande Bretagne, right on the square in Syntagma. Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads of state, it ranks among the grand hotels of the world. No other hotel in Athens can boast such a rich history. Though completely renovated, it still retains an old-world grandeur. There is a divine spa, and the rooftop restaurant and bar are a treat.
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EATING
Athens has a vibrant restaurant scene and a delightful culture of casual, convivial alfresco dining. Getting together to eat, drink and talk is the main source of entertainment for Greeks, so you are spoilt for choice.
The city’s culinary offerings have come a long way in the past decade, with a renaissance in Greek cuisine and the arrival of a diverse crop of ethnic and international-style restaurants. A new generation of chefs has found inspiration in Greece’s regional cuisine and produce, while grandma’s cooking has entered the kitchens of the city’s finest restaurants. Trendy Nuevo-Greek restaurants compete alongside traditional tavernas, ouzeries (places that serve ouzo and light snacks) and quaint old-style mayireia (cook houses).
Having said that, some places put more effort into decor and attitude than into the food, charging more for average taverna fare. You may well find your most memorable meals served with minimum ambience.
It’s hard to resist one meal in atmospheric Plaka, but the food is generally overpriced and nothing to rave about. Better places are scattered around the city. Gazi has many modern tavernas, while old-style eateries downtown cater to city workers. In Monastiraki, the end of Mitropoleos is a souvlaki hub, with musicians adding to the area’s at times festive atmosphere. Mezedhopoleia (restaurants specialising in mezedhes) and fancier restaurants can be found around Adrianou, along the rail line to Thisio and in Psyrri. Exarhia’s popular ouzeries and tavernas cater largely to locals, while chic Kolonaki has some of the best fine-dining options.
We’ve stuck largely to downtown Athens and Greek cuisine. Unless stated otherwise, all the restaurants listed here are open daily for lunch and dinner.
Budget
PLAKA & SYNTAGMA
Paradosiako (Map; 210 321 4121; Voulis 44a, Plaka; mains €4-10) For great traditional fare, you can’t beat this inconspicuous, no-frills taverna on the periphery of Plaka, with a few tables on the pavement. There’s a basic menu but it’s best to choose from the daily specials, which include fresh and delicious seafood. It fills up