Greece - Korina Miller [94]
Doris (Map; 210 323 2671; Praxitelous 30, Syntagma; mains €4.20-8.80; 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) This Athens institution started as a galaktopoleio (dairy store) in 1947 and became a traditional mayireio catering to city workers. Pink walls aside, the classic marble tables, historical photos and old-style waiters give it a yesteryear ambience. Choose from the trays of daily specials (the stewed chickpeas are excellent), as the printed English menu only has the basics, and finish off with the renowned loukoumadhes (ball-shaped doughnuts served with honey and cinnamon).
Filema (Map; 210 325 0222; Romvis 16, Syntagma; mezedhes €4.50-12; Mon-Sat) This popular mezedhopoleio has two shopfronts and fills tables on both sides of this narrow street, which is a busy commercial area by day but a peaceful spot when the shops close. It has a great range of mezedhes such as plump keftedhes (small tasty rissoles) and grilled sardines.
Vizantino (Map; 210 322 7368; Kydathineon 18, Plaka; specials €5-9.50) Despite the touts, this place is recommended. It’s touristy in the extreme, but is the best of the restaurants around Plateia Filomousou Eterias. Go for the daily specials.
Glykis (Map; 210 322 3925; Angelou Geronta 2, Plaka; seafood mezedhes €5.50-6) In a quiet corner of Plaka, this casual mezedhopoleio with a shady courtyard is mostly frequented by students and locals. It has a tasty selection of mezedhes, including traditional dishes such as briam (oven-baked vegetable casserole) and cuttlefish in wine.
Lena’s Bio (Map; 210 324 1360; Nikis 11, Syntagma; salads €6-10; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) A wholesome option with a delicious range of organic meals, snacks and juices – if you can snag a table.
Platanos (Map; 210 321 8734; Diogenous 4, Plaka; mains €6.20-12.50; noon-4.30pm & 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat) This age-old Plaka taverna, with an antiquated menu in several badly translated languages, is in a pleasant village-style square away from the main tourist drag. There are tables under a giant plane tree and reliable home-style fare, such as chicken with okra. No credit cards.
Pure Bliss (Map; 210 325 0360; Romvis 24a, Syntagma; salads €7-9; 10am-1am Mon-Sat, 5-9pm Sun) One of the few places in Athens where you can get organic coffee, exotic teas and soy products. There’s a range of healthy salads, juices, smoothies and mostly organic food and wine (including organic cocktails).
MONASTIRAKI & OMONIA
Diporto Agoras (Map; 210 321 1463; cnr Theatrou & Sokratous, Omonia; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed 1-20 Aug) This quirky old taverna is one of the dining gems of Athens. There’s no signage, only two doors leading to a rustic cellar where there’s no menu, just a few dishes that haven’t changed in years. The house speciality is revythia (chick peas), usually followed by grilled fish and washed down with wine from one of the giant barrels lining the wall. The often erratic service is part of the appeal.
The streets around the colourful and bustling Varvakios Agora (Athens central market; Map; Athinas, Omonia; Mon-Sat) are a sensory delight. The meat and fish market is in the historic building on the eastern side, and the fruit and vegetable market is across the road. The meat market might sound like a strange place to go for a meal, but the market tavernas – such as Papandreou ( 213 008 2297; Aristogitonos 1; 24hr) – are an Athenian institution, turning out huge quantities of tasty, traditional fare. The clientele ranges from hungry market workers to elegant couples emerging from nightclubs at 5am in search of a bowl of hangover-busting patsas (tripe soup).
PSYRRI
Ivis (Map; 210 323 2554; Navarhou Apostoli 19; mezedhes €4-10) This cosy corner mezedhopoleio, with its bright, artful decor, has a small but delicious range of simple, freshly cooked mezedhes. Ask for the daily offerings as there’s only a rough Greek hand-written menu – the potato salad and refreshing beetroot with yoghurt are winners. There’s a good ouzo selection to wash it down.
Taverna tou Psyrri (Map; 210 321 4923; Eshylou 12; mains