Greece - Korina Miller [96]
MAKRYGIANNI & THISIO
Filistron (Map; 210 346 7554; Apostolou Pavlou 23, Thisio; mezedhes €7.50-15; Tue-Sun) It’s wise to book a prized table on the rooftop terrace of this excellent mezedhopoleio, which enjoys breathtaking Acropolis and Lykavittos views. Specialising in regional cuisine, it has a great range of tasty mezedhes – try the grilled vegetables with haloumi or the Mytiline onions stuffed with rice and mince – and an extensive Greek wine list.
To Steki tou Ilia (Map; 210 345 8052; Eptahalkou 5, Thisio; chops per portion/kg €9/30; 8pm-late) You’ll often see people waiting for a table at this psistaria, famous for its tasty grilled lamb chops. With tables on the quiet pedestrian strip opposite the church, it’s a no-frills place with barrel wine and simple offerings of dips, chips and salads. For those who don’t eat lamb, there are pork chops, too.
Mani Mani (Map; 210 921 8180; Falirou 10, Makrygianni; mains €9.50-17; closed Jul & Aug) Forgo a view and head upstairs to the relaxing dining rooms of this delightful modern restaurant, which specialises in regional cuisine from Mani in the Peloponnese. The ravioli with Swiss chard, chervil and cheese, and the tangy Mani sausage with orange are standouts. It’s great value and almost all starters and mains can be ordered as half-serves (at half-price), allowing you to try a range of dishes.
PSYRRI & MONASTIRAKI
Café Avyssinia (Map; 210 321 7407; Kynetou 7, Monastiraki; mezedhes €4.50-16.50; noon-1am Tue-Sat, noon-7pm Sun) Hidden away on grungy Plateia Avyssinias, in the middle of the flea market, this bohemian mezedhopoleio gets top marks for atmosphere, food and friendly service. It specialises in regional Greek cuisine, from warm fava to eggplants baked with tomato and cheese, and has a great selection of ouzo, raki (Cretan firewater) and tsipouro (distilled spirit similar to ouzo but usually stronger). There is often acoustic live music, from Manos Hatzidakis to rembetika (blues). There are fantastic Acropolis views from the window seats upstairs.
Ouzou Melathron (Map; 210 324 0716; Filipou 10, cnr Astingos, Monastiraki; seafood mezedhes €6.60-18.04) The famous ouzerie chain from Thessaloniki has been a hit since it opened in downtown Athens. It’s a fun place serving tasty mezedhes from an oversized menu with a good dose of whimsy (such as the transvestite lamb, which is actually chicken), including the odd-numbered prices.
OMONIA & EXARHIA
Hell’s Kitchen (Map; 210 524 1555; Kleisthenous 13, Omonia; mains €9.50-15.95; noon-midnight Tue-Sat, noon-6pm Sun & Mon) Behind the Town Hall, this friendly, contemporary cafe is a great place to lunch on wholesome burgers, pastas and salads (and coffees are reasonably priced). The pavement tables are on a garden deck and in the evenings it livens up with mojito-sipping patrons watching the area’s seedier elements parade by.
Yiantes (Map; 210 330 1369; Valtetsiou 44, Exarhia; mains €10-17) This modern taverna set in a lovely garden courtyard is next to an open-air cinema. It is upmarket for Exarhia, but the food is superb and made with largely organic produce. There are interesting greens such as almirikia, the fish is perfectly grilled, and the mussels and calamari with saffron are memorable.
Arheon Gefsis (Map; 210 523 9661; Kodratou 22, Metaxourghio; mains €10-20; Tue-Sat) This gimmicky but fun place turns the clock back 2500 years to ancient Greece. The waiters dress in flowing robes and there are no glasses – the ancients used earthenware cups and spoons instead of forks. The menu derives from ancient times; roast meats and fish dominate, served with purées of peas or chickpeas and vegetables.
GAZI & ROUF
Skoufias (Map; 210 341 2252; Vasiliou tou Megalou 50, Rouf; mains €5-9; 9pm-late) This gem of a taverna near the railway line is a little off the