Greece - Korina Miller [97]
Kanella (Map; 210 347 6320; Leoforos Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi; dishes €7-10.50; noon-late) Homemade village-style bread, retro mismatched crockery and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for this trendy taverna opposite the train line serving regional Greek cuisine. There are daily one-pot and oven-baked specials such as lemon lamb with potatoes, and an excellent zucchini and avocado salad. The house wine is a little rough.
Sardelles (Map; 210 347 8050; Persefonis 15, Gazi; fish dishes €9-15.50) This modern fish taverna specialises in simply cooked seafood mezedhes. It’s a friendly place with tables outside, opposite the illuminated gasworks, excellent service and nice touches such as the fishmonger paper tablecloths and souvenir pots of basil. Try the grilled thrapsalo (squid) and excellent taramasalata (a thick purée of fish roe, potato, oil and lemon juice). Meat eaters should venture next door to its meat counterpart, Butcher Shop.
KOLONAKI & PANGRATI
Oikeio (Map; 210 725 9216; Ploutarhou 15, Kolonaki; specials €7-13; 1pm-2.30am Mon-Sat) With excellent home-style cooking, this modern taverna lives up to its name (meaning ‘homey’). Oikeio is cosy on the inside and the tables on the pavement allow you to people-watch without the normal Kolonaki bill. There are pastas, salads and more international food, but try the mayirefta specials like the excellent stuffed zucchini.
Alatsi (Map; 210 721 0501; Vrasida 13, Ilissia; mains €12-16.50) Cretan food is in, and just behind the Hilton, Alatsi represents the new breed of trendy upscale restaurants, serving traditional Cretan cuisine, such as gamopilafo (wedding pilaf) with lamb or rare stamnagathi (wild greens), to fashionable Athenians. The food and service are excellent.
Top End
There are plenty of upmarket, blow-the-budget dining options in Athens. Reservations are essential.
Papadakis (Map; 210 360 8621; Fokylidou 15, Kolonaki; mains €18-38; Mon-Sat) In the foothills of Lykavittos, this understatedly chic restaurant specialises in seafood, with creative dishes such as stewed octopus with honey and sweet wine, delicious salatouri (fish salad) with small fish, and sea salad (a type of green seaweed/sea asparagus).
Varoulko (Map; 210 522 8400; Pireos 80, Gazi; mains €20-35; dinner from 8pm Mon-Sat) For a magical Greek dining experience, you can’t beat the winning combination of Acropolis views and delicious seafood by Lefteris Lazarou, the only Greek Michelin-rated chef. Lazarou specialises in fish and seafood creations, though there are also meat dishes on the menu. The service is faultless and the wine list enviable. The restaurant has a superb rooftop terrace.
Orizontes (Map; 210 722 7065; Lykavittos Hill; dishes €23-38) For a special night out, you can take the teleferik up to the peak of Lykavittos and watch the sun set over Athens. The menu at this upmarket restaurant is Mediterranean/international and the food and service are excellent, as is the wine list.
Spondi (Map; 210 752 0658; Pironos 5, Pangrati; mains €30-50; 8pm-late) Spondi is consistently voted Athens’ best restaurant, and the accolades are totally deserved. It offers Mediterranean haute cuisine, with heavy French influences, in a relaxed, classy setting in a charming old house in Pangrati. There is a range of set dinner and wine menus, and the restaurant has a lovely garden terrace draped in bougainvillea in summer. This is a special-occasion place.
Another good option to seek out is the modern Plous Podilatou, where you can dine by the Mikrolimano harbour in Piraeus.
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DRINKING
Cafes
Athens seems to have more cafes per capita than virtually any other city, inevitably packed with