Greece - Korina Miller [98]
You won’t have trouble finding a cafe anywhere in town. In Kolonaki, Da Capo (Map; Tsakalof 1) on the main square is known for excellent coffee and people-watching. It’s self-serve if you can find a table.
Another cafe-thick area is Adrianou, along the Ancient Agora, where you’ll find students and young people filling the shady tables at Dioskouri (Map; Adrianou 39). Further along the pedestrian promenade along Apostolou Pavlou, you’ll get great Acropolis views from Athinaion Politeia (Map; Akamandos 1).
Bars
In Athens the line between cafe and bar is often blurred, as you can drink just about anywhere and any time. Some bars are also restaurants that become clubs late at night. Many bars don’t get busy until after 11pm and open till late.
Every neighbourhood has its fair share of bars. In typical Athens fashion, ‘hot spots’ quickly become saturated and lose their appeal, and the action moves on to the next big boom area. In 2009 authorities were forced to crack down on the incursion of bars and cafes onto pavements and public spaces in areas such as Psyrri and Gazi.
That won’t stop patrons spilling out into the streets at Gazi trailblazer Gazaki (Map; Triptolemou 31), which has a great rooftop bar. If you can’t stand the crowds at hip Hoxton (Map; Voutadon 42), you can get some fresh air on the terrace of rock bar 45 Moires (Map; Iakhou 18, cnr Voutadon), overlooking Gazi’s neon-lit chimney stacks.
Psyrri’s bars come and go but a couple of staples are mainstream Fidelio (Map; Ogygou 2), which has a retractable roof, and long-time favourite Lilliputian warren Thirio (Map; Lepeniotou 1). Soul (Map; Evripidou 65) attracts a cool young crowd and has a dance club upstairs.
Funky bars have also popped up in obscure alleys and formerly deserted streets in downtown Athens. Bartessera (Map; Kolokotroni 25) is a cool bar at the end of a narrow arcade, with great music. A safe downtown bet for 30-somethings and great cocktails is Toy (Map; Karytsi 10), near the cluster of bars around Plateia Karytsi, or the lively Seven Jokers (Map; Voulis 7). With tables overlooking Plateia Kotzia, Higgs (Map; Efpolidos 4) is an old kafeneio (coffee house) morphed into an alternative bar that cranks up the music at night and is occasionally known to bring out the barbecue.
An alternative, multi-use, all-day bar with an arts focus, Booze (Map; Kolokotroni 57) has gallery spaces in the basement and a nightclub upstairs. In an industrial Bauhaus building near Gazi, the avante garde Bios (Map; Pireos 84) is a multilevel warren with a bar, live performances, art and new media exhibitions, a basement club, a tiny art-house cinema and a roof garden.
Kolonaki has two main drinking haunts. In the strip of bars at the top end of Skoufa, Rosebud (Map; Omirou 60, cnr Skoufa) is a good start, while Mommy (Map; Delfon 4), in a side street, is popular for English-speaking locals and its weekly ’80s night. Or you can join the crowds squeezing into the tiny bars on Haritos, or around the corner at the less snooty Mai Tai (Map; Ploutarhou 18).
Exarhia is a good bet for youthful, lively bars. Wunderbar (Map; Themistokleous 80), on Plateia Exarhion, is a decent place to start, while the cheap bar precinct on nearby Mesolongiou is popular with students and anarchists.
In Thisio, the multizoned Stavlos (Map; Iraklidon 10) is a veteran of the string of cafes and bars along Iraklidon’s pedestrian precinct. It plays mainly alternative music inside and more mellow sounds in the garden.
You won’t find any happening bars in Plaka, but Brettos (Map; Kydathineon 41) is a delightful old bar and distillery, with a stunning wall of colourful bottles and huge barrels. You can sample shots of Brettos’ home brand of ouzo, brandy and other spirits, as well as the family wine.