Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [110]
Doris made Shangri La into an intimate sanctuary rather than an ostentatious mansion. One of the true beauties of the place is the way it harmonizes with the natural environment. Finely crafted interiors open to embrace gardens and fountain courtyards. Collections blend with the architecture to represent a theme or region, for instance in the Damascus Room, the restored interior of a 19th-century Syrian merchant’s house. Duke’s extensive collections included gemstone-studded enamels, glazed ceramic paintings and silk suzanis (intricate needlework tapestries).
You can visit Shangri La only on a guided tour (866-385-3849; www.shangrilahawaii.org; 2½hr tour $25; usually 8:30am, 11am & 1:30pm Wed-Sat late Sep–late Aug), departing from the Honolulu Academy of Arts (Click here) in central Honolulu. Tours aren’t recommended for children under 12; reservations are essential. Although Shangri La is not air-conditioned, fetching souvenir paper fans are provided.
BEACHES
Southwest of the lighthouse, Diamond Head Beach Park draws surfers, snorkelers and tidepoolers, plus a few picnickers. The narrow strand is popular with gay men, who pull off Diamond Head Rd onto short, dead-end Beach Rd, then walk north along the shore to find a little seclusion and (illegally) sunbathe au naturel.
Nearby Kuilei Cliffs Beach Park draws experienced windsurfers when the tradewinds are blowing. When the swells are up, surfers take over the waves. This little beach has showers, but no other facilities. Park off Diamond Head Rd just beyond the lighthouse, then walk east past the end of the lot to the paved trail down to the beach.
From Waikiki, TheBus No 14 runs by both beaches once or twice hourly.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a luxury hotel by the beach, and more restaurants around the Kahala Mall.
Saturday Farmers Market at KCC (848-2074; Parking Lot C, Kapi‘olani Community College, 4303 Diamond Head Rd; 7:30am-11:30am Sat) At O′ahu’s premier gathering of farmers and their fans, everything sold is local and has a loyal following, including ’Nalo greens and North Shore avocados. Different restaurants each week are invited to sell tasty takeout meals.
Olive Tree Cafe (737-0303; 4614 Kilauea Ave, cnr Pahoa Ave; mains $5-12; 5-10pm) Hidden on the east side of Kahala Mall, this always-packed Mediterranean restaurant swears by the motto ‘Mostly Greek, not so fast food.’ Try the succulent chicken souvlaki and dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves). The next-door Greek deli has a cache of imported wines for BYOB.
Kahala Hotel & Resort (739-8888, 800-367-2525; www.kahalaresort.com; 5000 Kahala Ave; r $380-845; ) Nestled on a private beach, about a 15-minute drive from Waikiki, this swank resort is an intimate haven for rich-and-famous folks who crave seclusion above all. The price tag is high for such small standard rooms, especially those without views. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday, Hoku’s restaurant is revered for its East-West fusion; make reservations and inquire about the dress code.
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HAWAI′I KAI
pop 29,000
With its marina and picturesque canals surrounded by mountains, bays and beach parks, this meticulously planned suburb designed by steel tycoon Henry J Kaiser (he’s the Kai in Hawai′i Kai) is a nouveau-riche scene. Everything revolves around megashopping centers off the Kalaniana′ole Hwy (Hwy 72). If you’re driving around Southeast O′ahu, this is convenient stop for either a bite to eat or sunset drinks, or both.
Activities
An established five-star PADI operation, Island Divers (423-8222, 888-844-3483; www.oahuscubadiving.com;