Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [111]
Often-overlooked hiking trails climb dramatically into the Ko′olau Range. West of Hawai′i Kai, the 5-mile round-trip Kuli′ou′ou Ridge Trail is open to hikers and mountain bikers. It travels up forested switchbacks, then makes a stiff, but satisfying ascent along a ridgeline to a windy summit for 360-degree views of Koko Head, Makapu′u Point, the Windward Coast, Diamond Head and Honolulu. The trail, which may be partly overgrown with vegetation, starts from the Na Ala Hele (www.hawaiitrails.org) trailhead sign at the end of Kala′au Pl, which branches right off Kuli′ou′ou Rd, just over a mile north of the Kalaniana′ole Hwy (Hwy 72). From Waikiki, take TheBus No 22 or 23 to Kuli′ou′ou Rd; from the bus stop, it’s a 1-mile walk inland to Kala′au Pl.
About 4 miles east of town, Hawai′i Kai Golf Course (395-2358; www.hawaiikaigolf.com; 8902 Kalaniana′ole Hwy; green fees incl cart $70-110) features a challenging par-72 championship course with Koko Head views, and a smaller par-54 course designed by Robert Trent Jones Sr back in the 1960s. Call ahead for tee-time reservations; club rentals available.
Eating & Drinking
The original Roy’s restaurant (Click here) still stands at Hawai′i Kai Towne Center.
Kona Brewing Company (394-5662; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalaniana′ole Hwy; mains $11-25; 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) This Big Island import is known for its microbrews, like Longboard Lager and Castaway IPA, and live Hawaiian music on weekends, including by big-name musicians like slack key guitar and ukulele master Led Ka′apana. Island-style pupu, wood-fired pizzas, burgers and salads are so-so.
BluWater Grill (395-6224; Hawai′i Kai Shopping Center, 377 Keahole St; mains lunch $10-18, dinner $20-32; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, 10am-11pm Sun) Perfect for chilling out with a cocktail, this breezy open-air restaurant overlooks the waterfront and dishes up kiawe-grilled fare such as seafood kebabs and chicken with papaya-ginger glaze. Sunday brunch features spicy ′ahi eggs Benedict, haute loco moco and a pancake bar with tropical toppings.
Also recommended:
Bubbie’s (396-8722; Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalaniana′ole Hwy; items $2-6; 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) Tropically flavored and mochi-mixed ice cream, with a Foodland supermarket nearby.
Kale’s Natural Foods (396-6993; Hawai′ Kai Shopping Center, 377 Keahole St; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) Near both a Safeway supermarket and The Shack sports bar for burgers and beer.
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HANAUMA BAY NATURE PRESERVE
A stunning ensemble of sapphire and turquoise hues all mix together in modern-art abstractions in this bowl-shaped bay, ringed by the remnants of an eroded volcano. Just below the sparkling surface are coral reefs, some of which are 7000 years old. These craggy and ancient underwater formations are a city for fish, providing food, shelter and an interspecies ‘pick-up’ scene. You’ll see schools of glittering silver fish, bright blue flashes of parrotfish and perhaps sea turtles so used to snorkelers that they’ll go eyeball to face mask with you. Despite its protected status as a marine-life conservation district since 1967, this beloved bay is still a threatened ecosystem, constantly in danger of being loved to death by the huge number of annual visitors – an average of 3000 people hit the beach each day to snorkel and dive here.
Information
Hanauma Bay is both a county beach park and a state underwater park (396-4229; www.honolulu.gov/parks/facility/hanaumabay, www.soest.hawaii.edu/seagrant/education/Hanauma; adult/child under 13 $5/free; 6am-6pm Wed-Mon Nov-Mar, to 7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, also to 10pm on 2nd & 4th Sat of each month). To beat the crowds, especially during peak summer season, arrive early (around 6am) when all the locals show up, and avoid