Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [112]
Sights & Activities
Past the ticket booth at the entrance is an award-winning educational center run by the University of Hawai′i. It features modern interactive, family-friendly displays that teach about the geology and ecology of the bay. All visitors are expected to watch a video, intended to stagger the crowds and inform you about environmental precautions. Down below at beach level are snorkel-gear rental concessions, lockers, lifeguards and bathrooms.
The bay is well protected from the vast ocean by various reefs and the inlet’s natural curve, making conditions favorable for snorkeling year-round. The fringing reef closest to shore has a large, sandy opening known as the Keyhole Lagoon, which is the best place for novice snorkelers. The deepest water is 10ft, though it’s very shallow over the coral. The Keyhole is well protected and usually very calm. Because most visitors are beginners, this is also the most crowded part of the bay later in the day and visibility can be poor from swimming. Be careful not to step on the coral or to accidentally knock it with your fins. Feeding the fish is strictly prohibited.
For confident snorkelers and strong swimmers, it’s better on the outside of the reef, where there are large coral heads, bigger fish and fewer people; to get there follow the directions on the signboard or ask the lifeguard at the southern end of the beach. There are two channels on either side of the bay that experience very strong currents. Don’t attempt to swim outside the reef when the water is rough or choppy.
If you’re scuba diving, you have the whole bay to play in, with crystal-clear water, coral gardens and sea turtles. Beware of currents when the surf is up, especially surges near the shark-infested Witches Brew, on the right-hand side of the bay, and the Moloka′i Express, a treacherous current on the left-hand side of the bay’s mouth.
Getting There & Away
Hanauma Bay is about 10 miles east of Waikiki along the Kalaniana′ole Hwy (Hwy 72). The parking lot sometimes fills by midmorning, after which drivers will be turned away, so the earlier you get there the better. From Waikiki, TheBus No 22 (nicknamed the ‘Beach Bus’) runs hourly to Hanauma Bay, except on Tuesday when the park is closed; the one-way trip takes about an hour. Buses leave Waikiki between 8am and 4pm (till 4:45pm on Saturday and Sunday); the corner of Kuhio Ave and Namahana St is the first stop, and buses often fill up shortly thereafter. Buses back to Waikiki leave Hanauma Bay between 10:45am and 5:25pm (to 6pm on weekends).
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KOKO HEAD REGIONAL PARK
With mountains on one side and a sea full of bays and beaches on the other, the drive along this coast rates among O′ahu’s best. The highway rises and falls as it winds its way around the tip of the Ko′olau Range, looking down on stratified rocks, lava sea cliffs and other fascinating geological formations. At last, you’ll truly feel like you’ve left the city behind.
Less than a mile east of Hanauma Bay, the roadside Lana′i Lookout offers a panorama on clear days of several Hawaiian islands: Lana′i to the right, Maui in the middle and Moloka′i to the left. About 0.5 miles further east, at the highest point on a sea cliff known locally as Bamboo Ridge, look for a temple-like mound of rocks surrounding a statue of Jizō, a Japanese Buddhist deity and guardian of fishers. This fishing shrine is often decked in colorful leis and surrounded by saké cups.
Halona Blowhole & Cove
Follow all of the tour buses to find the Halona Blowhole. Here the water surges through a submerged tunnel in the rock and spouts up through a hole in the ledge. It’s preceded by a gushing sound, created by the air that’s being forced out by the rushing water. The action depends on water conditions – sometimes it’s barely discernible, while at other times it’s a showstopper. Ignore the temptation to ignore the warning signs and walk down toward the blowhole, as several people have been fatally swept off the ledge by rogue waves.
Down to the right of the lookout