Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [117]
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Set inside a converted gas station, Naturally Hawaiian Gallery (259-5354; www.naturallyhawaiian.com; 41-1025 Kalaniana′ole Hwy; usually 10am-6pm) sells handmade works by O′ahu artists, including wooden koa bowls, carved bone fishhook pendants and other jewelry. Owner Patrick Ching, a former park ranger and cowboy, also sells his own naturalist paintings, prints and illustrated books here.
Getting There & Away
TheBus No 57, which runs between Waimanalo and Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center (one hour) and Sea Life Park via Kailua (25 minutes), makes stops along the Kalania′ole Hwy (Hwy 72) through town, running once or twice hourly.
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KAILUA
pop 49,250
Kailua is windward O′ahu’s largest town, which is a fairly easy title to win. A long graceful bay protected by a coral reef is Kailua’s claim to fame, and many repeat visitors to O′ahu leapfrog over touristy Waikiki to hang out in laid-back surf style here instead.
That’s because the weather and wave conditions are ideal for swimming, kayaking, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Along the shore, mid-20th-century cottages, most cooled by tradewinds and not air-conditioning, crowd into little neighborly lanes. The exclusive enclave of Lanikai is where you’ll find million-dollar views – and homes that easily cost at least that much.
In ancient times Kailua (meaning ‘two seas’) was a place of legends and home to several Hawaiian chiefs, serving as a political and economic center for the region. Rich in stream-fed agricultural land, fertile fishing grounds and protected canoe landings, it supported at least three temples, one of which you can still visit today.
Information
Bank of Hawaii (266-4600; 636 Kailua Rd; 8:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri)
Bookends (261-1996; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) Next to Times Supermarket, this indie bookstore sells new and used titles, plus newspapers and maps.
Kailua Information Center & Chamber of Commerce (261-2727; www.kailuachamber.com; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Hands out free maps and local information.
Kailua Post Office (800-275-8777; 335 Hahani St; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat)
Kailua Public Library (266-9911; 239 Ku′ulei Rd; 10am-5pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, 1-8pm Tue & Thu) Free reservable internet terminals (Click here).
Morning Brew (262-7770; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; per hr $6; 6am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Fee-based internet terminals or free wi-fi with purchase.
Sights & Activities
A wide arc of white sand drapes around the jewel-colored waters of Kailua Bay with formidable volcanic headlands pinning either side. Sea turtles poke their heads above the gentle waves, while residents swap gossip during early morning dog walks along the beach. The beaches have gently sloping sandy bottoms with usually calm waters, good for swimming year-round. In the afternoons, winds transform the bay into a windsurfing and kitesurfing rink. For sunrise or starlight yoga on the beach, check out the rotating schedule of classes, styles and teachers with Kailua Beach Yoga (722-8923; www.kailuabeachyoga.com); beginners are welcome – just bring your own mat.
KAILUA BEACH PARK
This is the primary access point for visitors and has the usual public facilities. Three of the pretty little offshore islands are seabird sanctuaries and only accessible by kayak. Landings are allowed on Popoi′a Island (Flat Island), directly off the south end of Kailua Beach Park. Twin Mokulua Islands, Moku Nui and Moku Iki, sit directly off Lanikai. It’s possible to kayak from Kailua Beach Park to Moku Nui, but landings are prohibited on Moku Iki, the smaller of the two islands. Landings are allowed on Moku Nui, which has a beautiful beach for sunbathing and snorkeling.
A few kayaking, windsurfing and kitesurfing outfitters have rental-gear concession