Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [118]
Hawaiian Watersports (262-5483; www.hawaiianwatersports.com; 354 Hahani St; kayak rentals $50-65; 9am-5pm) Gives discounts for online bookings.
Kailua Sailboards & Kayaks (262-2555, 888-457-5737; www.kailuasailboards.com; Kailua Beach Center, 130 Kailua Rd; kayak rentals $40-60; 9am-5pm) A short walk from the beach.
Naish Hawaii (262-6068; www.naish.com; 155 Hamakua Dr; windsurfing rig rentals $45-55; 9am-5:30pm) Owned by windsurfing champion Robbie Naish.
Twogood Kayaks Hawaii (262-5656; www.twogoodkayaks.com; 345 Hahani St; kayak rentals $40-60; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat & Sun) Free delivery next to Kailua Beach Park.
LANIKAI BEACH
By following the coastal road southeast of Kailua Beach Park, you’ll soon enter Lanikai, fronted by what was once one of Hawaii’s prettiest stretches of powdery white sand. Today the beach is shrinking, as nearly half of the sand has washed away as a result of retaining walls built to protect the neighborhood’s multimillion-dollar mansions. Still, it’s a rare beauty, and at its best during full-moon phases. Beyond Kailua Beach Park, the coastal road turns into one-way A′alapapa Dr, which loops back around as Mokulua Dr, passing 11 narrow public-access walkways to the beach. The most luxurious stretches of sand are the farthest southeast toward Wailea Point.
KALAMA BEACH PARK
On the northern side of the bay, this beach has the roughest shorebreak and is popular with experienced bodyboarders. Surfers usually head for the northernmost tip of Kailua Bay at Kapoho Point or further still to Zombies Break.
SCUBA DIVING
Sea caves, lava tubes, coral gardens and WWII-era shipwrecks can all be explored courtesy of Aaron’s Dive Shop (262-2333, 888-847-2822; www.hawaii-scuba.com; 307 Hahani St; 2-tank boat dive $115-125; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun), a five-star PADI operation. Discounts may be available for booking online; inquire about free Waikiki hotel pick-ups.
BIRD WATCHING
Kawai Nui Marsh is one of Hawaii’s largest freshwater marshes and provides flood protection for the town of Kailua.
The inland water catchment is also one of the largest remaining fishponds used by ancient Hawaiians. Legend says the edible mud of the ancient fishpond was once home to a mo′o (lizard spirit).
Downstream is the smaller Hamakua Marsh Wildlife Sanctuary (http://hamakuamarsh.com; admission free; sunrise-sunset), which provides habitat for some rare waterbirds, including the koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck), ae′o (Hawaiian black-necked stilt), ′alae kea (Hawaiian coot) and kolea (Pacific golden plover). Birders flock to the sanctuary after rainstorms. You can park for free behind the Down to Earth Natural Foods store off Hamakua Dr.
Sleeping
Kailua has no hotels, but what it does have in abundance is suburban home-style B&Bs and vacation rentals either on the beach or within walking distance. Most are nonsmoking, don’t accept credit cards, require an advance deposit and multiple-night stays, add a cleaning fee surcharge and are legally prohibited from displaying signs or offering a hot breakfast. Call ahead (not just from the airport or the road!) a few days, weeks or months in advance for reservations and directions. For camping, head west to Kan′eohe (Click here) or south to Waimanalo (Click here).
Manu Mele Bed & Breakfast (262-0016; www.pixi.com/~manumele; 153 Kailuana Pl; d $100-120; ) A little out of the way but still just steps from the beach, these simply decorated guest rooms in the contemporary home of English-born host Carol Isaacs appeal. Each has a private entrance, refrigerator, microwave, coffeemaker and cable TV. Smoking allowed only in the garden.
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DETOUR: ULUPO HEIAU
The building of this imposing platform temple (587-0300; admission free; sunrise-sunset) was traditionally attributed to menehune, the ‘little people’ who legends say created much of Hawaii’s stonework, finishing each project in one night. Fittingly, Ulopo means ‘night inspiration.’ In front