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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [120]

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and market-fresh salads. Early-morning regulars often toast their own bagels while helping themselves to fresh coffee. The market’s in-town cafe and wine bar serves haute bistro dinners.

Lanikai Juice (262-2383; Kailua Shopping Center, 600 Kailua Rd; items $3-8; 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun) With fresh fruit grown by local farmers and biodegradable cups, this addictive juice bar blends yogi-worthy smoothies with names like Ginger ′Ono and Kailua Monkey. In the morning, join all the locals at sunny sidewalk tables while devouring overflowing bowls of granola topped with açai berries, apple bananas and grated coconut.

Boston’s North End Pizza Bakery (263-8005; 31 Ho′olai St; slices $4-6; 11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat) Along with enormous handmade pies, this authentic place dishes up supersized slices with thick, chewy crusts that are equal in size to a quarter of a pizza – surely enough to fuel an afternoon of windsurfing.

Cinnamon’s Restaurant (261-8724; 315 Uluniu St; mains $5-12; 7am-2pm) Locals pack this humble family-friendly café for standouts like guava chiffon pancakes, Portuguese sweet-bread French toast, eggs Benedict mahimahi, curried chicken-and-papaya salad, and frittatas with sun-dried-tomato pesto and artichoke hearts.

Uahi Island Grill (266-4646; 307 Uluniu St; meals $6-11; 10:30am-8pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 2:30pm Tue) Get your fresh, flavorful and healthy plate-lunch fix at this corner spot. Furikake tofu poke, red seafood curry, garlicky chicken, brown rice and vegan desserts all come packaged in biodegradable containers.

Buzz’s (261-4661; 413 Kawailoa Rd; mains lunch $9-15, dinner $15-36; 11am-3pm & 4:30-9:30pm) By the canal across the road from the beach, this locals’ hangout has a tiki-lit lanai and a straightforward menu of charbroiled fish and burgers at lunch and kiawe-grilled surf-and-turf at dinner. Waits are usually long; service can be lousy. Cash only.

Lucy’s Grill ‘n Bar (230-8188; 33 Aulike St; mains $16-32; 5-10pm) A dressed-down contemporary bistro, Lucy’s mingles tastes from the Pacific Rim, Southeast Asia and the Americas, like ′ahi-crab cakes with chipotle aioli or grilled fish with lemongrass-curry glaze and Moloka′i sweet-potato mash on the side. If you like exotic bar drinks, check out the pineapple martini and li hing mui margarita.

Also recommended:

Down to Earth Natural Foods (262-3838; 201 Hamakua Dr; 8am-10pm) Natural-foods grocery store with a takeout deli and hot-and-cold salad bar.

Farmers Market (848-2074; parking garage behind Longs, 591 Kailua Rd; 5-7:30pm Thu) Artisan breads, organic fruit and veggies and island-style plate meals.

Foodland (261-3211; 108 Hekili St; 24hr) Look for a gourmet wine-and-food specialty shop inside this supermarket.

Drinking & Entertainment

Though it’s not a huge party spot like Waikiki, Kailua has the Windward Coast’s most happening bars.

Boardriders Bar & Grill (261-4600; 201 Hamakua Dr; noon-2am) Has live bands and dancing most weekends.

Tiare’s Sports Bar & Grill (230-8911; 120 Hekili St; 2pm-4am) Next to Pali Lanes bowling alley, this has live bands, along with karaoke, pool tables and sports TV.

Shopping

Downtown has plenty of thrift shops, antique stores and island-art galleries.

Mu′umu′u Heaven (263-3366; Davis Bldg, 767 Kailua Rd; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) Hidden behind the fine-arts Nohea Gallery, this chic contemporary boutique vends flowing tropical-print dresses, skirts and feminine tops all handmade from vintage muumuus, as glimpsed in fashion and style mags like Lucky.

Coconut Music (262-9977; 418 Ku′ulei Rd; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) This island-born guitar shop carries name-brand ukuleles – including Kamaka, handmade in Honolulu (Click here) – and vintage ukes from the early 20th century. Next-door Hungry Ear Records stocks new, used and collectible Hawaiian music CDs and vinyl records.

Getting There & Away

From Honolulu’s Ala Moana Center, TheBus routes No 56 and 57 run to downtown Kailua every 15 minutes, taking about 45 minutes (longer during rush hours). To get to Kailua Beach Park or Lanikai, get off

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