Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [128]
You’ll probably be in for a long wait at Kahuku’s most famous shrimp trucks, including Romy’s (232-2202; 56-781 Kamehameha Hwy), just north of town, and Giovanni’s (293-1839), near the old sugar mill. Next to Giovanni’s, Famous Kahuku Shrimp (389-1173; 56-580 Kamehameha Hwy) offers a few more menu choices like hot-‘n’-spicy squid. All of these shrimp trucks are usually open 10am to 6pm daily, depending upon supply and demand. Expect to pay at least $12 per dozen shrimp or prawns with two-scoop rice.
Back in the middle of town, at the back of the shopping center, Kahuku Grill (293-2110; 55-565 Kamehameha Hwy; mains $5-12; 8am-7pm) looks like a tidy farmhouse kitchen and has true aloha spirit. The pancakes are fluffy, the handmade beef burgers juicy and the coconut-encrusted shrimp delicately fried – yum, yum.
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NORTH SHORE
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You don’t have to know much about the world of surfing to know a few things about the North Shore. Iconic breaks such as Pipeline, Sunset and Waimea are known all over the globe as must-surf locations. In winter the big swells come in and the wave heights reach truly gigantic proportions. The ocean rears its head in either profound beauty or utter terror – depending on your point of view.
To say that the North Shore is just about big waves is misleading – the beaches are stunning by anyone’s standards and the sleepy rural lifestyle sits in harmony with its bohemian underpinnings. In summer the waves peter out and the surf tribe migrates to the next big break – in their wake all that is left is calm water, perfect for snorkeling, and those same stunning beaches.
Before the surfing revolution of the 1950s the North Shore was little more then a collection of fishing villages, sugarcane plantations and dilapidated houses. The rebirth of board riding saw the arrival of surfers, surf competitions and eventually those eager to cash in on the trend.
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DETOUR: JAMES CAMPBELL NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
Signposted 2 miles north of Kahuku, this wildlife refuge ( 637-6330; www.fws.gov/jamescampbell; admission free; varies) encompasses freshwater wetland habitat for four of Hawaii’s six species of endangered waterbirds: the ′alae kea (Hawaiian coot), ae′o (Hawaiian blacknecked stilt), koloa maoli (Hawaiian duck) and ′alae ′ula (Hawaiian moorhen). During stilt nesting season, normally from mid-February to mid-October, the refuge is off-limits to visitors. The rest of the year, free guided tours are given (reservations required).
The North Shore is far from a sellout though – there is a strong current within the local community to keep ‘The North Shore Country’. Development is frowned upon and conservation is the coolest concept in town.
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TURTLE BAY
Sitting upon the crown of northeastern O′ahu, the coves and lava beds that define the area in and around Turtle Bay (Kawela Bay) is a stunning marker between the Windward Coast and the North Shore. The Turtle Bay Resort claims a portion of this landscape with a view-perfect hotel, golf course, condo village and public access to the nearby beaches. There are rumors of expansion afoot – while the resort is dead keen, the locals are almost unanimously opposed. Time will tell if the development goes through and if tough economic times are enough to sway the locals.
Beaches
Kuilima Cove, with a beautiful little beach known as Bay View Beach, is a stunner. Like a good beach should, it has something for everyone, and there is plenty of sand to stretch out on, which should keep the placid placated. An outer reef that not only knocks down the waves but facilitates some great snorkeling – and, in winter some nice moderate surf – can