Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [129]
Just a mile east of Kuilima Cove is Kaihalulu Beach, a beautiful, curved, white-sand beach backed by ironwoods. The rocky bottom makes for poor swimming, but the shoreline attracts morning beachcombers. Go another mile east to reach scenic Kahuku Point, where local fishers cast throw-nets and pole fish from the rocks.
Turtle Bay Resort
Out-of-sync with the North Shore’s beatnik reputation, the Turtle Bay Resort (Map; 293-6000; www.turtlebayresort.com; 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy, Kahuku) has brought all the modern conveniences of resort life to an unlikely corner of the island. The resort has two top-rated 18-hole courses (one designed by George Fazio and the other by Arnold Palmer); 10 tennis courts (highly rated by Tennis magazine) and horseback riding on slow-paced trails and sunset rides.
SLEEPING & EATING
The sleeping options at the resort include the multistory hotel (293-6000; r from $460; ) and the adjacent condominiums (studios from $110; 1br from $135; 2br from $190). Each of the hotel rooms has a lanai with a breathtaking ocean view. Booking arrangements for the condos are handled by Turtle Bay Condos (293-2800, 888-266-3690; www.turtlebaycondos.com) or Estates at Turtle Bay (293-0600, 888-200-4202; www.turtlebay-rentals.com). Team Real Estate at Hale’iwa (Click here) also deals with Turtle Bay condo bookings.
21 Degrees North (293-8811; Turtle Bay Resort, 57-091 Kamehameha Hwy; mains $28-40; 6-10pm Tue-Sat) has big windows filled with views of the ocean – the hallmark of this fine-dining establishment. Well-prepared seafood with a local flavor makes for a memorable dining experience.
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WAIMEA
pop 2450
The tiny community of Waimea is little more then a collection of a few houses and shops, across the road from one of the best surf breaks in the world.
Revered the world over for its monster winter waves, it’s a sort of loose gathering point for the world’s best surfers, ardent fans and enthusiastic wannabes. Beyond the beach, which shouldn’t be ignored, lies a pocket of lush green beauty. Even if you don’t surf, there’s enough here worth spending some time in the area – the surrounding hills are home to lush rainforest, archeological treasures and a charming little town.
Two hundred years ago the Waimea Valley was heavily settled, the lowlands terraced in taro, the valley walls dotted with houses and the ridges topped with heiau sites. Waimea River, now blocked at the beach, originally opened into the bay and was a passage for canoes traveling to villages upstream. Surfing has been associated with Waimea since the 15th century, when Hawaiians took to he‘e nalu (traditional Hawaiian term for board surfing).
Sights & Activities
SUNSET BEACH PARK
Like many beaches on the North Shore, Sunset Beach has a split personality depending on the time of year. In the winter the big swells come in and the sand is pounded into submission by spectacularly large waves. It’s a hot spot for the top wave riders and the posse of followers that these rockstars of the sea attract.
In the summer the waves calm down and the beach increases in size, thanks to the lack of pounding. Though the water is more inviting, be aware that there are still some nasty currents about.
The beach has rest rooms, showers and a lifeguard tower. If the beachside parking is full, you can find parking in the lot across the street.
BACKYARDS
A smokin’ surf break off Sunset Point at the northern end of the beach, Backyards draws top windsurfers. There’s a shallow reef and strong currents to contend with, but also the island’s biggest waves for sailing.
‘EHUKAI BEACH PARK
′Ehukai Beach, aka Banzai Pipeline, aka Pipeline, aka Pipe – call it what you want, but if it’s big surf you seek, this is the place. Pipeline is known the world over as one of the biggest, heaviest and closest-to-perfect barrels in all of wave riding. When the strong westerly swells kick up in winter the waves jack up to monster size, often reaching over 15ft before breaking on the ultrashallow reef below.