Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [130]
For the non-world-class surfer this is a great venue to watch the best do their thing – the waves break only a few yards off shore, so you really are front-row and center. In the summer months everything is calm and there is even some decent snorkeling to be done off this beach – oh how the seasons change!
The entrance to ′Ehukai Beach Park is opposite Sunset Beach Elementary School. At the beach, there’s a lifeguard, rest rooms and showers.
PUPUKEA BEACH PARK
Pupukea Beach Park is a long beach further south along the highway that includes Three Tables to the south, Shark’s Cove to the north and Old Quarry in between. Pupukea, meaning ‘white shell,’ is a very scenic beach, with deep blue waters, a varied coastline and a mix of lava and white sand. The waters off Pupukea Beach are protected as a marine-life conservation district.
The large boulders on the end of Kulalua Point, which marks the northernmost end of the beach, are said to be followers of Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess. To acknowledge their loyalty, Pele gave her followers immortality by turning them to stone.
There are showers and rest rooms in front of Old Quarry; TheBus 52 stops out front.
Shark’s Cove
Shark’s Cove is beautiful both above and below the water’s surface. The naming of the cove was done in jest – sharks aren’t a problem. In summer, when the seas are calm, Shark’s Cove has super snorkeling conditions, as well as O′ahu’s most popular cavern dive. A fair number of beginner divers take lessons here, while the underwater caves will thrill advanced divers.
To get to the caves, swim out of the cove and around to the right. Some of the caves are very deep and labyrinthine, and there have been a number of drownings, so divers should only venture into them with a local expert.
Three Tables
Three Tables gets its name from the flat ledges rising above the water. In summer when the waters are calm, Three Tables is good for snorkeling and diving. It is possible to see some action by snorkeling around the tables, but the best coral and fish, as well as some small caves, lava tubes and arches, are in deeper water further out. This is a summer-only spot. In winter dangerous rip currents flow between the beach and the tables. Watch for sharp rocks and coral – and, as always, don’t touch the reef.
WAIMEA VALLEY
The perfect antithesis to the beach, this complex and endearing park (638-9199; 59-864 Kamehameha Hwy; adult/child 4-12 $8/3; 9:30am-5:30pm) across from Waimea Bay Beach Park is a sanctuary of tropical tranquility. You have the option to wander among the gardens or even take a dip at the base of the 60ft waterfall. Amongst the foliage you’ll find up to 6000 plant species and replicas of the buildings the early Hawaiians dwelled in.
WAIMEA BAY BEACH PARK
It may be a beauty but it’s certainly a moody one. Waimea Bay changes dramatically with the seasons: it can be tranquil and flat as a lake in summer, then savage in winter, with incredible surf and the island’s meanest rip currents.
Winter is prime time for surfers. On the calmer days bodyboarders are out in force, but even then sets come in hard and people get pounded. Winter water activities at this beach are not for novices. Usually the only time it’s calm enough for swimming and snorkeling is from June to September.
Given Waimea Bay’s position as the most popular North Shore beach, parking is often tight. Don’t park along the highway, even if you see others doing so; police are notorious for towing away dozens of cars at once, particularly when surf competitions are taking place. Facilities here include showers, rest rooms and picnic tables, and a lifeguard is on duty daily.
PU′U O MAHUKA HEIAU STATE MONUMENT
A stellar view of the coast and a stroll around the grounds of O‘ahu’s largest temple reward those who venture up to this national historic landmark, perched on a bluff above Waimea. The temple’s stacked stone construction is attributed