Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [131]
The terraced stone walls are a couple of feet high of rough dilapidated stone. Collectively, the three adjoining enclosures that form the main body of the heiau are more than 550ft in length. This was a dramatic site for a temple, and it’s well worth the drive for the commanding view, especially at sunset.
To get there, turn up Pupukea Rd at the Foodland supermarket. The heiau turnoff is half a mile up, and from there it’s 0.7 mile to the site.
KAUNALA LOOP TRAIL
Little-known Kaunala Loop Trail sits quietly above Waimea Valley, a good place to mix an easy valley walk with a moderate ridge climb for sweeping views of Waimea Bay. After seeing the beauty of the bay from viewpoints high atop this trail, it’s easy to see why Hawaiian royalty considered it sacred.
To get to the trailhead, turn up Pupukea Rd at the Foodland supermarket and continue for 2.5 miles, where the road ends at a Boy Scout camp. Park in the camp parking lot and follow the Na Ala Hele signs to the trailhead. This 4.5-mile hike averages about two hours. This trail is officially open to the public only on weekends and state holidays. Hunting is also allowed in this area, so hikers should wear bright colors and avoid wandering off the trail.
Festivals & Events
The kickoff leg of the world’s premier surfing event, the Triple Crown of Surfing, is the Reef Hawaiian Pro held at Hale′iwa Ali′i Beach Park in mid-November. The O’Neill World Cup of Surfing (late November to early December) is the second leg of the competition and takes place at Sunset Beach. Then the final leg, the Billabong Pipeline Masters, is in early to mid-December at Banzai Pipeline, with the world’s top pros vying for a $275,000 purse.
Sleeping
The bulletin board at Pupukea’s Foodland supermarket has notices of roommates wanted and the occasional vacation rental listing, so check it out if you’re thinking of staying a while. There are also a number of private home owners who rely on word-of-mouth advertising, as well as vacation-rental agencies (Click here).
Backpackers Vacation Inns & Plantation Village (638-7838; http://backpackers-hawaii.com; 59-788 Kamehameha Hwy; dm/d/studio $30/72/120; ) Travelers looking for a good budget choice on the North Shore are in luck. This friendly backpacker-style place is your one and only option and thankfully it’s also a groovy place to stay. In keeping with the local vibe, the digs are modest to the point of ramshackle, but if you don’t mind the odd bit of peeling paint and an eclectic decor you’ll feel right at home. The location is superb and there is a variety of rooming options, from bunk rooms through to private cabins on the beach.
Shark’s Cove Rentals (638-7980, 888-883-0001; www.sharkscoverentals.com; 59-672 Kamehameha Hwy; r $75-185; ) This well-managed property consists of four adjacent houses that are directly across from Pupukea Beach Park. The houses are divided into apartment-style dorms: each of the self-contained apartments has three private bedrooms with bunk beds, shared bathroom and shared kitchen. In the main house, overlooking the water, the units have a private bathroom but shared kitchen and common space. The owners are enthusiastic about their guests and their enjoyment of the North Shore.
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THE EDDIE
Every winter a very special surf contest takes place. Named in honor of the late Eddie Aikau, this big-wave surfing event is perhaps the most prestigious and spiritual surf contest anywhere.
Eddie Aikau was a legendary waterman and Waimea lifeguard. You only have to see Waimea on a big day to know the courage it takes to wade into the water to save a swimmer in trouble.
In 1978 Eddie joined an expedition to re-create the Polynesian journey to Hawaii – by sailing a replica double-hulled canoe from O‘ahu to