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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [133]

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Information

Coffee Gallery (637-5355; North Shore Marketplace, 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy; per 10min $1; 7am-8pm) Internet access and free wi-fi is available at this café.

First Hawaiian Bank(637-5034; 66-135 Kamehameha Hwy; 8:30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri) Just north of the Hale′iwa Shopping Plaza.

Post office (637-1711; 66-437 Kamehameha Hwy; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) At the south side of town.

Hale’iwa Pharmacy (637-9393; 66-149 Kamehameha Hwy) In Hale’iwa Shopping Plaza.

Dangers & Annoyances

Because there is a transient population on the North Shore, car and vacation rental break-ins are common. Don’t leave any valuables in your car when parked at beach parks and follow all the safety regulations required by the rental agencies.

Sights

BEACHES

The in-town beach parks provide a nice patch of green to host family luau and community soccer scrimmages. Although these beach parks are close to the harbor, the wave action does attract annual surf competitions and lots of local attention.

On the northern side of Waialua Bay, the Hale’iwa Beach Park is protected by a shallow shoal and breakwater so the water is usually calm, and a good choice for swimming. There’s little wave action, except for the occasional north swells that ripple into the bay.

Although the beach isn’t as pretty as Hale′iwa’s other strands, this 13-acre park has a broad range of facilities, as well as basketball and volleyball courts, an exercise area and a softball field. It also offers a good view of Ka′ena Point.

Hale′iwa Ali′i Beach Park is home to some of the best surf on the North Shore and as a result is a popular spot for surf contests. In late November the Triple Crown of Surfing gets underway on this break – bringing in the best surfers in the world. The waves here can be huge, with double or triple overhead tubes not uncommon.

When it’s flat, the local kids rip it up with their bodyboards and mere mortals test their skills on the waves. The 20-acre beach park has rest rooms, showers, picnic tables and lifeguards. The shallow areas on the southern side of the beach are generally the calmest places to swim.

Those wanting to get away from Hale‘iwa can head a mile or so west of town to the Kaiaka Bay Beach Park. There are a few more trees here, so it’s a good option when the mercury climbs and shade is necessary. The swimming is better at the other local beaches, so look elsewhere if you’re looking to get wet. Kaiaka has rest rooms, picnic tables, showers, drinking water and campsites.

NORTH SHORE SURF & CULTURAL MUSEUM

It’s impossible to separate surfing from the culture of the North Shore – the best place to see how deep that connection runs is this museum (637-8888; 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy; admission by donation; 11am-5:30pm Wed-Mon) in the North Shore Marketplace. The little museum is packed with vintage boards, fading photographs and some great stories. They have some cool vintage bits of memorabilia for sale too. Definitely worth a wander.

LILI’UOKALANI CHURCH

Although the current building was constructed in 1961, the Lili’uokalani Church (637-9364; 66-090 Kamehameha Hwy; most mornings) congregation dates from 1832. It is a Protestant church named for Queen Lili‘uokalani, who spent summers on Anahulu River and attended services here. Services were held entirely in Hawaiian until the 1940s.

In 1892 Queen Lili‘uokalani gave the church its seven-dial clock, which shows the hour, day, month and year, as well as the phases of the moon. The queen’s 12-letter name replaces the numerals on the clock face. The church is open whenever the minister is in, usually mornings.

Activities

SURFING

If you’re a beginner, the North Shore does have a few tame breaks, including Chun’s Reef, Pu‘uena Point and Hale‘iwa Ali‘i Beach Park. Even if you’ve ridden a few waves in Waikiki, it is advisable to take a lesson with one of the many freelancing surfers to get an introduction to the underwater hazards. Everyone offers lessons on the side, so ask around for recommendations or keep an eye out for homemade brochures.

SNORKELLING

During the winter,

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