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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [134]

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North Shore dive operators take trips to Shark’s Cove (Click here) in the summer months and to South Shore wrecks in the winter. Between Christmas and April, humpback whales visit the harbors of northern and western O′ahu.

Deep Ecology (637-7946, 800-578-3992; www.deepecologyhawaii.com; 66-456 Kamehameha Hwy; 2-tank dive $139; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) If you’d rather get under the waves as opposed to on top of them, the folks at Deep Ecology can sort you out. With a strong ecological bent, these divers are concerned about the ocean and lead dive trips with that in mind.

CYCLING & MOUNTAIN BIKING

Bike riding on the North Shore ranges from paved bike paths next to the Kamehameha Hwy to challenging tracks above Waimea Bay and wider trails around Ka‘ena Point (Click here).

Sleeping

Except for Turtle Bay Resort, there are no official hotels on the North Shore. Vacation rentals are the most common lodging options. There are a few European-style B&Bs, as well as budget-style hostels, and people occasionally rent out rooms in their homes; check the bulletin boards at Malama Market in Hale‘iwa or Foodland supermarket in Pupukea. See under Waimea (Click here) for more sleeping options.

Team Real Estate (637-3507, 800-982-8602; www.teamrealestate.com; North Shore Marketplace; 66-250 Kamehameha Hwy; vacation homes per night from $65) This place handles a couple dozen vacation rentals on the North Shore, including several one- and two-bedroom apartments in Hale′iwa. Most budgets can be accommodated, but it’s best to get in early, especially in the busy winter season.

SandSea Vacation Homes (637-2568, 800-442-6901; www.sandsea.com; beachfront houses $175-750) This outfit specializes in renting beachfront homes along the North Shore. It has about 20 properties in all, ranging from places that can accommodate just two people to those that can sleep up to 20.

Hale′iwa’s only camping option is at Kaiaka Bay Beach Park, where the county allows camping on Friday to Tuesday nights. For details on obtaining a permit, Click here.

Eating

BUDGET

Celestial Natural Foods (637-6729; 66-443 Kamehameha Hwy; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) For those in search of karmicly cool organic produce and health foods this is the place. There is a tiny veggie-friendly deli out back for a quick meal.

Malama Market (637-4520; 66-190 Kamehameha Hwy; 7am-9pm) If you’re looking to self-cater, get the picnic gear in order or grab a quick bite from the deli. You’ll find all the right ingredients at this modern supermarket.

Spaghettini (637-0104, 66-200 Kamehameha Hwy; pizza slices $2.50-3, pizza $10-$16; 11am-8pm) Don’t be fooled by its unassuming looks – this place serves up the best pizza in all O′ahu. For a quick, delicious lunch try a veggie slice loaded with spinach, olives and garlic. Forget the pasta – pizza is the real prize.

Kua ‘Aina Sandwich Shop (637-6067; 66-160 Kamehameha Hwy; sandwiches $4-8; 11am-8pm) Want the best burgers in all of O‘ahu? Look no further then this North Shore überclassic burger joint. Kua ‘Aina has a list of burgers and sandwiches a mile long, so there is bound to be at least a few things to tickle your fancy. We find the mahimahi sandwich particularly scrumptious.

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SWEET TREAT

The circle-island drive isn’t complete without stopping for shave ice at Matsumoto’s (637-4827; 66-087 Kamehameha Hwy; snacks $2-5) tin-roofed general store. Often Honolulu families drive to the North Shore with one goal only in mind: to stand in line here and walk out with a dripping, delicious shave ice cone, drenched with island flavors, such as liliko’i (passion fruit), banana, mango and pineapple.

Hawaii’s shave ice is drenched with industrial-strength sweet syrup, like the snow cones found on the US mainland, but it’s much better because the ice is more finely shaved. A medium-sized cone with a combination of flavors usually costs about $2 – a bit more if you add a local favorite, red azuki bean. The entire concoction begins dripping into a sticky mess the second you get it, so don’t dawdle.

Most tourists flock to

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