Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [139]
The pineapple industry in O′ahu was established in 1901 by James D Dole, a cousin of Sanford B Dole, then president of the Republic of Hawaii after the overthrow of the queen. Not only was Dole successful at growing pineapples in the temperamental soil but he introduced industrialization into the time-consuming process of canning the fruit, so that it could reach the mainland market faster and cheaper.
Getting hopelessly lost has never been more fun then here in the ‘world’s largest’ maze (adult/child $6/4). This claim to fame has been verified by the good folks at Guinness World Records. It truly is a gigantic undertaking, with over a mile and a half of pathways to lose your way in. The goal is to find six different stations before making your way out. You better be quick if you want to beat the current record of six minutes – most people take 30 minutes and the geographically challenged can take hours.
Thomas fans unite! A vintage steam train (adult/child $7.75/5.75) grinds a groove around the plantation, taking budding engineers and conductors for a 20-minute ride. The kids will love it and parents will have a place to sit for 20 minutes.
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WAI′ANAE (LEEWARD) COAST
The Wai′anae (or Leeward) Coast is a one of contrasts. On one side of the Farrington Hwy (Hwy 93) are some of the nicest beaches on the island, yet on the other side, dilapidated houses and scruffy businesses dominate the region. There is a collective feeling of the forgotten over here – with the wealthy of Honolulu sweeping what they don’t want in their backyard under the Wai′anae rug. You’ll find the garbage dump, the power plant and the economically depressed all living here.
While one might assume that this makes for a depressing experience, it’s quite the contrary. The Wai′anae (Leeward) Coast is in many ways the heart and soul of the island. You’ll find more Native Hawaiians here then anyplace else and with that, a cultural pride permeates the area.
The land is dry and the mountains seem to push you into the sea – but the beaches are wide, untouched by tourism and the communities are nothing if not authentic.
Farrington Hwy runs the length of the coast, scooting past squatty towns and liquor stores on one side and white-sand beaches on the other. Further up the coast habitation yields to the velvet-tufted mountains and rocky coastal ledges leading all the way to the sacred tip of the island at Ka‘ena Point.
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KO OLINA RESORT
No beach? No problem. All it takes is a little bit of lateral thinking and a couple of thousand tons of imported sand. When this resort was still on the drawing board it lacked the signature feature that is key for all Hawaiian resorts – a beach. A deal was struck and in exchange for public access, investors were allowed to carve out four kidney-shaped lagoons and line them with soft white sand. These four man-made beaches are well worth a visit – the calm waters are perfect for kids. Even if you’re not keen to get wet the ample recreation opportunities make this resort a worthy stop. There’s a great golf course for the energetic and a decadent spa for those in need of pampering.
The key feature to the resort is the Ko Olina Lagoons – four purpose-built beaches that are an indulgent treat. The largest of the bunch is the lagoon that sits in front of the JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa. At nearly 200yd across – it’s a nice little fake beach. The islands that block the open sea from the lagoons help with water circulation and are also great places for spotting fish. Keep an eye on the kiddies though – the current picks up near the opening to the open sea.
There is a wide and comfortable path that connects the lagoons, which is a great venue for a lazy stroll. Limited free parking can be found at each of the lagoons.
Sleeping
JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa (679-0079, 800-626-4446; www.marriotthotels.com; Ko Olina Resort, 92-1001 Olani St; r from $295, with ocean view from $340; ) Seated right on the beach, this attractive property is palatial, expansive