Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [140]
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KAHE POINT
A hulking power plant complete with towering smokestacks isn’t the best neighbor to a beach, but as they say, you can’t pick your neighbors. Called the Kahe Point Beach Park, there isn’t actually a beach here, just a rocky point that’s popular with fishermen. However, there are great views to the north, as well as running water, picnic tables and rest rooms.
Hawaiian Electric Beach Park is the name on the map, but all the locals refer to this stretch of sand as Tracks. This colloquial name stems from the train that transported beachgoers here prior to WWII. The sandy shores are good for swimming in the summer and great for surfing in the winter.
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NANAKULI
Nanakuli, the biggest town on the Wai′anae (Leeward) Coast, is the site of a Hawaiian Homesteads settlement, having one of the largest Native Hawaiian populations on O‘ahu. It also has supermarkets, a courthouse, a bank and fast-food joints.
Nanakuli Beach Park is a broad, sandy beach park that lines the town, offering swimming, snorkeling and diving during the calmer summer season. In winter high surf can create rip currents and dangerous shorebreaks. As an in-town community park, it has a playground, sports fields and beach facilities. To get to the beach park, turn makai at the traffic lights on Nanakuli Ave.
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MA‘ILI BEACH PARK
Ma‘ili has a long, grassy roadside park with a seemingly endless stretch of white beach. Like other places on this coast, the water conditions are often treacherous in winter (which pleases the local surfers), but calm enough for swimming in summer. There’s a lifeguard station and run-down facilities; coconut palms provide shade.
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WAI’ANAE
pop 10,814
Wai′anae is the second-largest town on the coast and has the greatest concentration of everyday services: from grocery stores to the commercial boat harbor and a well-used beach park.
Protected by Kane’ilio Point and a long breakwater, Poka’i Bay Beach Park features the calmest year-round swimming on the Wai′anae Coast. Waves seldom break inside the bay, and the sandy sea floor slopes gently, making the beach a popular spot for families. Snorkeling is fair near the breakwater, where fish gather around the rocks. You can watch local canoe clubs rowing in the late afternoon and lots of family luau on weekends. There are showers, rest rooms and picnic tables, and a lifeguard on duty daily.
Kane’ilio Point, along the south side of the bay, is the site of Ku’ilioloa Heiau. Partly destroyed by the army during WWII, this stone temple has been reconstructed by local conservationists. To get there, turn onto Lualualei Homestead Rd from Farrington Hwy and head toward the sea.
Eating
Barbeque Kai (696-7122; 85-973 Farrington Hwy; mains $3-7; 8am-8pm) On a nice day the tables in front of this grungy little lunch bar are overflowing with the local crew. Don’t come here expecting fine china or reusable silverware – but if you want a good feed for a couple of bucks, this is the place – cheap-as-chips mixed plates, burgers and other local favorites populate the menu.
Surfah Smoodeez (478-9088; 85-979 Farrington Hwy; smoothies $5; 10:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5:30pm Sat) This nondescript, low-key little shop is a hidden gem and just what the doctor ordered on a hot day, with its fresh-fruit smoothies a refreshing treat. It’s just south of the highway’s intersection with Wai′anae Valley Rd.
Tacos & More (697-8800; 85-993 Farrington Hwy; mains $5-10; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 2-8pm Sat) A great Mex place with plenty of aloha – owned by a family who started out in Mexico City – this ever-expanding eatery with vegetarian options has retained its delicious reputation and continues