Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [141]
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MAKAHA
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Makaha means ‘ferocious,’ and in days past the valley was notorious for the bandits who waited along the cliffs to ambush passing travelers. Today Makaha is best known for its world-class surfing, fine beach and O‘ahu’s best-restored heiau. If you’re looking for accommodation, this area offers the coast’s best options.
Sights & Activities
MAKAHA BEACH PARK
Makaha Beach has a history of big-wave surfing that ranks amongst the richest on the island. It’s a beautiful arcing beach with a stunning stretch of sand that entices you to spread out your towel and spend the day.
Makaha leapt to fame in the 1950s when it hosted Hawaii’s first international surfing competition. The long point break here produced the waves that inspired the first generation of big-wave surfers. It’s still possible to rekindle that pioneering feeling as (except on the biggest days) you’re likely to have the place virtually to yourself. Winter months bring big swells and preclude swimming much of the time – the golden sand however, is a permanent feature. The beach has showers and rest rooms, and lifeguards are on duty daily.
KANE′AKI HEIAU
Set within the Makaha Valley the Kane’aki Heiau (695-8174; admission free; 10am-2pm Tue-Sun) is one of the best restored sacred sites on the island. According to legend the rain goddess was impressed with the fishing prowess of a local chief. His generous offering of fish was reciprocated with generous rainfall to the parched valley and in turn a heiau was built in her honor. The site was later used as a luakini, a type of temple dedicated to the war god Ku and a place for human sacrifices. Kamehameha worshipped here and it remained in use until the time of his death in 1819.
Restoration, undertaken by the Bishop Museum and completed in 1970, added two prayer towers, a taboo house, drum house, altar and god images. The heiau was reconstructed using traditional ohia tree logs and pili (a type of Hawaiian grass used for thatching buildings) from the Big Island. The immediate setting surrounding the heiau remains undisturbed, though it’s in the midst of a residential estate.
To get there, take Kili Dr to the Makaha Valley Towers condominiums, and turn right onto Huipu Dr. Half a mile down on the left is Mauna Olu St, leading into Mauna Olu Estates. The guard at the Mauna Olu Estates gatehouse grants entry to nonresidents who are visiting the heiau, a short drive past the gatehouse. Following rain, access is difficult, so call in advance.
Sleeping
Makaha accommodations options include several beachside condos that are rented out by realty agents, as well as an inland resort hotel. While most condo rates are quoted for monthly stays, you may be able to negotiate shorter periods.
Hawaii Hatfield Realty (696-7121, 696-4499; www.hawaiiwest.com; Suite 201, 85-833 Farrington Hwy, Wai’anae; units from $500 per week) Hawaii Hatfield arranges long-term rentals for Makaha Shores, a condo complex at the northern end of Makaha Beach.
Makaha Resort & Golf Club (695-9544; www.makaharesort.net; 84-626 Makaha Valley Rd; r from $130; ) Straight from the 1970s, this decidedly retro establishment is the place to be for the sporting set. With a golf course right out the door plus a batting cage, tennis court, basketball court and pool at your disposal you might actually forget to relax. There are great panoramic views of the valley and the ocean far below. The rooms themselves are spacious and tidy. Rates can really vary here – it’s best to hunt for specials.
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MAKUA VALLEY
Scenic Makua Valley opens up wide and grassy, backed by a fan of sharply fluted mountains. It serves as the ammunition field of the Makua Military Reservation. The seaside road opposite the southern end of the reservation leads to a little graveyard that’s shaded by yellow-flowered trees. This site is all that remains of the Makua Valley community, which was forced to evacuate during WWII when the US military took over the entire valley for bombing practice.