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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [166]

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are simply splendid. Large, immaculate and fully stocked, units are gathered in small, well-designed clusters that afford privacy. One-bedroom units can easily fit a family of four, and you’ll want to rip the kitchen out to take home. A daily maid service is included.

Eating

Habaneros (324-4688; Keauhou Shopping Center; à la carte $3-7, plates $7.50-9; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) Add Habaneros to the list of decent taquerias that bless the Big Island. Its fresh, flavorful burritos, tacos and fajitas have a loyal following. Cash only.

Peaberry & Galette (322-6020; Keauhou Shopping Center; crepes $8-14; 9:30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 6pm Sun) For a dose of European hipness, order a sweet or savory crepe here. The quality of the salads and quiches is above average and the espresso machine hisses constantly, of course.

Kama′aina Terrace (322-3441; Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort; Friday buffet adult/child 6-12 $35/17.50; 6:30-10:30am & 5:30-9pm) The Outrigger’S ocean-front dining room offers an uncompelling surf-and-turf, except on Friday nights, when it hosts a lavish seafood and prime-rib buffet that includes traditional Hawaiian dishes and sushi. It is like a luau spread, sans fire-twirlers.

Kenichi Pacific (322-6400; Keauhou Shopping Center; sushi $7-15, mains $26-43; 4-9:30pm, dinner from 5pm) Kenichi prepares well-executed and beautifully presented Pacific fusion cuisine. Highlights include scallops in red curry over soba noodles, grilled ono with a ponzu glaze and sweet potatoes, and sauteed shiitake mushrooms over spaghettini. It also prepares extremely fresh sushi and sashimi. While the mall setting doesn’t affect the sleek, stylish dining room, it kills the outdoor terrace. Don’t miss happy hour (4pm to 6pm), with half-price sushi rolls and drink specials.

For groceries and deli takeout, head for KTA Super Store (322-2311; Keauhou Shopping Center; 7am-10pm) or Kona Natural Foods (322-1800; Keauhou Shopping Center; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun).

Drinking & Entertainment

Verandah Lounge (322-3441; Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort; 4-10pm Tue-Sat) Waves crashing just below greatly enhances the atmosphere of this wraparound bar. Live Hawaiian music sets the tone from 7pm to 10pm Friday and Saturday.

Firenesia (326-4969; www.firenesia.com; adult/child 5-12 $80/50; 4:30pm Mon) The Sheraton replaced its old luau with this Polynesian-focused show (another Island Breeze production).

Keauhou Cinema (324-0172; Keauhou Shopping Center) Hollywood flicks fill seven screens.

Shopping

Kailua Village Artists Gallery (324-7060; Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort; 9:30am-5:30pm Sat-Thu, till 7pm Fri) In the Outrigger hotel, this co-op gallery represents a wide range of professional local artists and photographers. It’S fun browsing even if you’re not buying.

Getting Around

A free shuttle (called the Honu Express) runs between Keauhou Shopping Center and Kailua Pier in Kailua-Kona, stopping at the Keauhou resorts and White Sand Beach, among other stops, between 7:30am and 8:30pm daily. It makes 10 trips into downtown Kailua-Kona. Anyone can ride; to pick up a schedule, visit the shopping center (www.keauhoushoppingcenter.com) or any Keauhou hotel.


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HOLUALOA

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Holualoa, at 1400ft on the lush slopes of Mt Hualalai above Kailua-Kona, appears almost unchanged from its days as a tiny, one-donkey coffee village. Appearances can be deceiving, however. The Holualoa area is now one of West Hawaii’S prime addresses, and the town’S ramshackle buildings hold a stunning collection of sophisticated artist-owned galleries. Preserving the village’S historic atmosphere and community spirit while building one of the Big Island’S most vibrant art colonies (at the same time keeping tour buses at bay) has been a tightrope walk since the 1980s. Today, the Old Mamalahoa Hwy’S designation as the Kona Heritage Corridor (see opposite) should help this quirky town retain its unique flavor.

For more information, see www.holualoahawaii.com. Most businesses close on Sunday and Monday. During November’S Kona Coffee

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