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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [167]

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Cultural Festival (Click here), Holualoa hosts a day-long block party called the Coffee & Art Stroll; the Music & Light Festival is a wonderful Christmas celebration.

Sights & Activities

DONKEY MILL ART CENTER

Today, the only donkey you’re likely to see is on the roof of this fantastic art center (322-3362; www.donkeymillartcenter.org; 78-6670 Hwy 180; admission free; 10am-4pm Tue-Sat), which is 3 miles south of the village and run by the Holualoa Foundation for Arts & Culture. The unpretentious center is a working studio that hums with activity and offers a diverse slate of recommended classes; many are taught by the same artists (like Hiroki Morinoue, Sam Rosen and Michael Harburg), whose works fill the town’S galleries. A small permanent gallery, gift shop and revolving art shows mean there’S always something to see.

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KONA HERITAGE CORRIDOR & COFFEE FARM TOUR

The Kona Heritage Corridor was created to help preserve and promote the historic village of Holualoa and its surrounding coffee farms. It encompasses the 10-mile section of the Old Mamalahoa Hwy (Hwy 180) between Hwys 190 and 11, but efforts are underway to have a 60-mile portion of the Mamalahoa Hwy designated a national scenic byway. Incredibly, it would be Hawaii’S first.

Brochures (in town and at visitors centers) describe the route and the region’S history. For more on Holualoa, see opposite. The following are a few of the several coffee farms where you can learn firsthand about the meticulous handpicking, sun-drying and roasting of the renowned Kona coffee. All give free tours and tastings without reservations. Begin this tour in the north, at the junction of Hwys 190 and 180.

Hula Daddy Kona Coffee (327-9744, www.huladaddy.com; 74-4944 Hwy 180; 10am-2pm Tue-Sat) The attractive tasting room is the place for cupping seminars.

Kona Blue Sky Coffee (877-322-1700; www.konablueskycoffee.com; 76-973A Hualalai Rd; 9am-3:30pm Mon-Sat) In Holualoa village, this estate’S tour includes the traditional open-air drying racks and a video; it has a nice gift shop.

Holualoa Kona Coffee Company (322-9937, 800-334-0348; www.konalea.com; 77-6261 Hwy 180; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) The Kona Le′a Plantation does not use pesticides or herbicides on its beautiful organic farm; the tours are excellent.

Sugai Coffee Farm (Map; 322-7717, 800-566-2463; www.sugaikonacoffee.com; Hwy 180;8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Just north of Hwy 11 junction, this third-generation, family-owned Japanese coffee farm has been here for a century. The tour is a basic presentation; roastings are from Monday to Wednesday mornings.

For a comprehensive description of Kona coffee country, see www.konacoffeefest.com/driving tour.

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MALAMA I′KA OLA HOLISTIC HEALTH CENTER

This health center (324-6644; 76-5914 Hwy 180) offers yoga classes and massage, in addition to alternative skin and healthcare treatments.

Sleeping & Eating

Kona Hotel (324-1155; Hwy 180; s/d with shared bathroom $30/35-40) This shockingly pink historic boarding house (c 1926) is not for everyone. The amazing views might distract you from the barely adequate rooms, but it’S hard to look past the dirty communal bathrooms. Rooms cannot be locked (they latch from inside), and the Inaba family usually insists on seeing you before saying whether you can stay, so don’t bother calling ahead.

Holualoa Inn (324-1121, 800-392-1812; www.holualoainn.com; 76-5932 Hwy 180; r $270-310, ste $295-345, both incl breakfast; ) At the other extreme, the Holualoa Inn is one of the island’S classiest, most romantic properties. From the gleaming eucalyptus floors to the unwoven lauhala (hala leaf) walls to the river-rock showers, serene beauty and comfort shines in every detail; several gorgeous public rooms graced with tasteful Asian art and exquisite carved furniture segue seamlessly into the outdoor gardens and pool, while the rooftop gazebo surveys the world. The six rooms don’t disappoint, making this peaceful, intimate retreat one you’ll long remember. No TVs, phones, or children under 13.

Holuakoa Gardens & Café (322-2233;

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